Possible Smoke Issue

Help!

Well Chip, you have a small dilemma; knowing what you've said, if it were mine, I'd pop the shell off and make sure all that fluid is not everywhere it's not supposed to be such as electronic boards or draining into the speaker enclosure.

If you don't want to do that, I'd turn the unit upside down over some paper towels and let as much fluid drain out as possible from the stacks. Check to see if fluid is oozing from the shell at the frame split-line for any indications that the fluid is out of the smoke unit itself. You may have been lucky and just soaked everything good. Once you don't get anymore fluid dripping from the stacks, try putting it back on the track "as-is" and see how she does.

These A units are tricky to fill, the fluid has a long way to go to get down to the wicking.

Theres a funnel that goes to both stacks and the fluid tends to get trapped at the base of the funnel just above the smoke unit opening.

I have some TMCC a's and I add fluid to one stack only then while plugging my finger over the other opening I gently blow down the open stack.

I normally add fluid "the night before" this gives it more time to get down to the wicking.

New wicking takes some time to "season" and then it absorbs better. I compare this to a new automotive chamois which dries the car better after its been wetted a few times.

I would lean towards not enough fluid, new legacy units are thirsty and fluid needs to be added regularly. Its also likely the fluid that ran out was in the funnel as opposed to the unit itself. Most modern smoke units can accommodate 20 drops without an overfilling.

If you've readded fluid, I'd blow a few times in the stack and run without the smoke on, give it a try tommorrow, let the fluid soak in.

Interesting you should ask that...I did not know both A units had to be adjusted seperately...I thought they were considered the same by default, since they are both the same road number.

So there is a way to adjust the smoke on each one seperately even though they came as a set with the same road number?

I know I programmed both A units but, was I supposed to have created a lash up?

I thought by loading the little module it came with was supposed to set everything up?

Hers some photos Marty E took of a legacy GP7 smoke unit which is similar to yours so you can grasp the setup.

Heres a link to MartyE's complete "how to" article. I'm not recommending taking it apart, just for further reading.

Marty E's Legacy GP7 smoke unit tips

Your right chipset, I stand corrected.

You can program them for the same Legacy ID and run them that way, but the lights don't work properly, and the electrocouplers will uncouple everyone if you fire them.  If you set them to separate ID numbers and then configure an MU with them, the direction lights work properly, even with one running backwards, and the electrocouplers know when to fire.

MR's instruction video states ( at least as far as the Legacy RF16 AA's are concerned) It is not necessary to program the unpowered A in a lashup,its already preset as the same number. Its only necessary to do a lashup with a powered B.

Thats why I corrected my original statement.

Just a thought try doing a factory reset and then reprogram the ID number in. The information is in your instruction book.

Back to the smoke unit question; if it was me I would not operate these units until I had popped the top off of each and cleaned up whatever mess the smoke fluid may have made.

Most of the time when you invert an engine some of the fluid runs into the inside of the shell or boiler and later finds its way down to boards, speakers, etc. Smoke fluid and electronics don't mix that well IMO.

Smoke fluid will trash a speaker.

I would also poke Q tips or pipe cleaners down the smoke unit funnel to soak up any excess fluid, and start from there.

I would then run the units with the shells off and make sure the smoke units are working as they should before buttoning them up.

Rod