Power sections

Using toggle switches is quite simple.  Insulate the center rail of the track closest to the beginning of the spur.  Then power the center rail anywhere on that spur with an in-line toggle switch.

I like to leave some of a siding powered, only creating a "dead" block for locos at the ends.  That way I can leave lighted cars on.  It's all about isolating that center rail connection with plastic pins, slice gap, etc. where it does the most good.

There are actually some anti derail features on certain turnouts that kill the power to center feed opposite of the points presently set direction.  Knowing what your's do may have  impact on what to do.

Thanks for the guidance.  I completed the project installing toggle switches to control the power to various sections of the layout.  I took a couple of photos as well if it helps anyone else.  Installed velcro underneath the console cover so I can easily access the wiring should I need to repair anything.

I set up my yard sidings so that a single toggle switch controls both the switch leading to the siding and the power to the insulated center rail of that siding. Seemed like the easiest approach.

Looks pretty good for a rookie, lol.

The 2cnd switch on the left, the rear terminal, the fork (ring?) connection is at a 90° and the wire looks to be stressed at the crimp by the turn the wire needs to do. You might want to take the stress off it, espcially since its crimped...hard to say; I didn't install it

  Im a huge fan of solder vs crimps. Wires never ever pull from a soldered connection. The gauge never comprimised by broken wire from an enthusiastic crimp, etc.  Crimps do have a little more tolerance for wire stresses at the crimp though. Solder on the other hand can hold too tight, too still, and wire movement and flex can break them easier/sooner. Its a trade off.)  

   To lessen issues at a crimp, a spring or heat shrink tube to extend some stiffness a bit from the crimp, haults flex near the crimps and works well.

  I mention this because each time you flip the panel open, the wires will move and flex.  Clamping bundles to the panel with a wire stay steadys the connection and puts movement and flex at the wire stay.  Advice from Capt Hindsight for sure, but if you run into issues down the road, you now know how to possibly address it.   

  Another instesting panel feature I always got a kick and smile from is a long light spring to pull wires away from mating surfaces and hinge jams so they don't get pinched while closing it up. A certain coin op video game control panel got that update in it's second year and I fell in love with the function and simplicity.  I look for any excuse to use it, lol.