Powering Woodland Scenics Structures & Signs

24VDC?  Yow, that seems pretty high.  I would think 12VDC would be adequate.  That seems fairly standard.  The package for the Rustic Water Tower notes that it draws 30mA (30 milli-amps).  Anybody else have a thought on this?

George

I’ve gone lower than 12vDC as I’ve found some of the building lighting to be brighter than I prefer.  I have a 12v DC power supply and I run that through buck converters geared to my end applications.  For Woodland Scenics, I use the converter effectively like a dimmer.  As i recall, I’ve reduced the voltage to 7 to 8 volts and reached the lighting level I liked.

To my simpleton knowledge of electrons, 12 volts AC is the same as 12 volts DC, just how the electrons behave in waves is different...but maybe the WS City Water tower works better or differently on DC, so I'll give it a try with my portable DC variable transformer. Kind of pain because I have it wired under the layout and the wire is thread like thin. Most of my WS structures on the other hand are responding to 12 volts AC.

It's not so much the voltage, it's the amps that can cause trouble.  I would stick with DC.  But I believe a standard O gauge transformer puts out a max of 14 to 20 VAC for accessories.  The water tower my require a higher voltage, AC or DC. if indeed it is 30 milliamps.  That's a lot of amps.. I would test out hooking up to transformer on the AC side and see how it works.  Just touch the pos & neg wires to the transformer just to be on the safe side...

Good luck'

I happen to have a JustPlug power supply (JP5770).  It's output is 24VDC and its max load is 1000 mA.  To use it, you must connect it to a Lights & Hub Set (JP5700), Expansion Hub, or a Sequencing Hub.  Originally, I bought it for some HO houses and street lights for the Steubenville portion of the layout.  While the JustPlug is simple and convenient, it's pretty pricey.

I connected a JustPlug power supply to the Lights & Hub Set and then tested its output with a multimeter.  Using the dimmer controls, you can get anywhere from 0 to 22.9 VDC.

I have a Woodland Scenics Rustic Water tower, which is labeled as drawing 30 mA.  Unless I want to run 40' of wire to it from the Lights & Hub Set, I'm going to have to figure out something else (or buy another set up).  Ouch.

George

30 milliamps is .030 amps, which is not even 2 standard leds. Maybe that high voltage requirement matches their power supply.

Used to be years back, a step up and a step down transformer.  Nowadays we have the BUCK converters.  That may be the answer for the WS Water Tower.. They are very inexpensive on Amazon.. Try one of each...

@John H posted:

30 milliamps is .030 amps, which is not even 2 standard leds. Maybe that high voltage requirement matches their power supply.

@John H

Hey John, you are right about 0.030 amps being a very light load, but I didn't understand your last sentence.

George

@G3750, I just meant that it might be a ploy to get you to buy their power supply.

@Quarter Gauger 48 posted:

Used to be years back, a step up and a step down transformer.  Nowadays we have the BUCK converters.  That may be the answer for the WS Water Tower.. They are very inexpensive on Amazon.. Try one of each...

Ted, you are correct I bought many of these from amazon and power lights and accessories throughout my layout. Cheap. You can 4 for around $13. 

I power my Woodland Scenics buildings using a 12vdc laptop power supply.

Guys, following your tips, I looked on Amazon...choices are abundant, how and what exactly are we trying to accomplish (step down from what transformer?) and which is the appropriate converter...for WS water tower and building lights in general, for example, Amazon.com: 4 Pieces Adjustable LM2596S DC-DC Buck Converter Reduced Voltage Regulator Power Module 36V 24V 12V to 5V 2A Voltage Stabilizer with Digital Voltmeter Display : Electronics

Thanks for help on this. I am glad I am not the only one with curiosity.

@John H posted:

@G3750, I just meant that it might be a ploy to get you to buy their power supply.

Oh, I agree completely.  It's a move to lock people into their proprietary system.  If someone wants to just light up some buildings (without individually dimming or controlling them) and uses their "system" it's $$$$$!    The 2-wire JST connectors are the "locking" function.

George

@Bob B posted:

I power my Woodland Scenics buildings using a 12vdc laptop power supply.

I power all this with the same. I use the 5vdc tap with a diode for Miller signs.

Paul, all this sounds more complicated than it really is.  In your case, this is what I would recommend. Buy an inexpensive variable DC wall wart.  12-24 VDC.  forget all the rest.  That should work for you WS tower.  The photo below is powered by one single 12Vot DC wall wart.   All the leds are wired to a power strip.  Any AC required accessory is powered by a 75 Watt Atlas O Gauge transformer.  And those are mostly AC street lights... The B&W shot has 100 LED 5MM & 3MM bulbs. 

The only reason I mentioned the buck converters is I just started using them on the new layout I'm building.  I have the ones that show the voltage in and out.  Frankly, I'm not crazy about them. Mainly, I'll be running lights with them.  Here's what hey look like.

@John H posted:

I power all this with the same. I use the 5vdc tap with a diode for Miller signs.

John,  if possible, I'd like to see a pic of exactly how you have one of the MIller signs hooked up.. It would be much appreciated...👍

Roger on the 12 volt DC wall plug-in.  I have resorted to using them for other DC only applications, mainly building flats that have LED light strips in them.

FWIW: I had been attempting to have one central power distribution hub - which is under my layout with numerous terminal strips, STAR wiring for DCS, all the transformers, TMCC/Legacy/TIUs, etc.  From central hub, I began wiring in district terminal strips around the layout, e.g., one for industrial area, others for urban districts, etc., all AC voltage. As George mentioned, running 20-35 ft. runs of wire to power the districts is labor-intensive, but worth it.

The challenge is when DC voltage is needed and that's where the wall plug ins come in. The problem is then plugging them all in around the basement prior to having a night operating session; I thought the solution would be with Radio Shack controllers that turn on and off plug-in module units that plug into wall receptacles. However, when I go to control them, each RS module "trips" an internal breaker, despite total amperage draw being less than rating on the modules. I can only guess that the RS plug in things don't like AC-DC plug-ins, but that's a wild guess.

At this point, if I can get a building or tower to light it's a success; I've given up on the central control hub idea - that could be a retirement project

5 vdc red wire from the PC power supply to diode to red wire for sign. Black is ground to layout common, which is shared by both ac and dc.

I have the PC power supply plugged in to the same outlet as my MRC Pure Power Dual. 12vdc goes to switch panel on yellow wire and jumpered to each switch, as is the black ground (for leds on switches). Red wires go out to buildings, street lighting, signals, and even the diner and brewery smoke. Transformer and power supply are connected to a switched outlet next to the main light switch for the train room. I have another 12 vdc feed for the buildings and signals on the other leg of my U shaped layout. With everything turned on, they draw just under 5 amps. Each side is protected by a 3amp breaker to protect smaller wires. They have never tripped, as the power supply has its own protection, which is instantaneous.