Practical advice when going from old to new layout?

At 10 x 10, your proposed layout is very manageable.  If you don't have complete access around it, consider putting the entire layout on casters, or lockable wheels.  This way, you could spin it around when you need to gain access to remote places.  Just a thought.

I would go for an around the wall layout with curves as large as possible (don't think minimum curves, think MAXIMUM curves).

Settle on a height of the layout you'd be happy with (I went from 48" down to 36", mainly so I could see things better and get to them easier).

Don't make the width any wider than you can reach over.  Most of mine is 24" wide, but some sections are 36".

Once you get your structures (framework, table top) up, lay some track but don't fasten it so that you can't move it (and no scenery for a while), because if you don't like it you can easily re-arrange the track at this point.

Incorporate some storage/shelving underneath so you'll have a place to put cars you won't be using.  I have a 12x12 layout and basically no yard.  I pretend mine is a branch line and the yard is offline (underneath on the shelves).

Good luck!

Toss that fastrack and use something that is quiet and has/maintains good electrical connections.

I am in a 14 x16 ft room, and my previous layout was in a 12x14'.

Use a folded dog bone type layout, in an around the room/partial around the room with an island.

No wider than the shelves in the links below or maybe a little wider...

If you go to HomeDepot or Lowes, you can buy plastic modular shelving...I use something like this:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_319451...uct_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo=

I just make it 2 levels high, which is 3 shelves, and instead of wood, because the wood is too heavy for me to move and there is no one to help me, also wood is a nightmare if you make a mistake and have to "undo" something.

As a result, I just buy those insulation sheets from Lowes or Home Depot and use Woodland Scenics 'Foam Glue" for everything.

That glue is STRONG, and a little goes a long way, I just use dots....and if you need to undo something that glue is very forgiving.

Would that I could but I have a lot of money inve$ted in that Fa$track.

Same here, Fastrack and Realtrax...

I can live with the Fastrack, but regret ever using RealTrax.

Michael: Try using some Woodland Scenics foam roadbed under your FasTrack next time-vry easy to install and helps quiet even Atlas"O" over foam.

I would start with a well thought out plan of the entire new layout. To me, this is the most critical step. I was 1,100 miles away from the proposed new layout, but I took the time first and drew a detailed plan right down to the building placement on 8 city blocks. It made the construction phase so much easier.

If at all possible, I would have at least one main line at 0-72. This will give you the option to run just about all of the O-Gauge equipment that is out there.

Hope this helps.

Going to try very hard for at least one 0-72 loop.

Michael:

You will never regret having that 0-72 main line.

I'll agree with Brian, A good Plan can be revised many times. Track that is screwed down is much harder to fix problems in.

Post the plan in the Layout sections here and get feedback and assistance.

If you don't want the track humped up as far as the roadbeds make it, try sheeting with Soundstop by Celeotex.  It costs less than homosote is widely available and is DESIGNED to muffle sound. It is NOT structural, Pick a sheet up by a corner and all you get is the corner. But it is far superior for reducing noise to most other products.

Another source not often mentioned -  All those hollow empty freight cars. Cut and stuff a chunk of pillow foam in them, they spot broadcasting noise instantly.

You can leave the middle (where the doors are) empty for those Hobo's to hop into as needed.