I have a lionel 4-4-2 steam engine it would not run i put a new board in it it runs but runs real slow and i notice the capactior gets real hot would any u guys know what be wrong
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I would guess that the can motor needs replaced. I've read that the reverse board and the motor sometimes go at the same time. At least they are cheap.
COncur with bad motor. Many times the motor is the problem drawing excessive current and then damaging the board. G
Thanks guys for your input
Another thing might be lubrication. If the motor is working hard, it may be drawing more current than normal. Can you turn it freely by hand? If it's the normal Scout type with the DC motor, you should be able to turn the wheels directly without a lot of resistance.
My experience is it is not a lubrication problem with these engines. The DC Can motor for the starter set engines doesn't really allow for lubrication and the nylon gears and bearings don't really need a lot of lubrication.
Minimalist design that just wears out with use. G
What board did you put in? Do you have the Lionel item number handy? The boys might be right on the motor. I like to unsolder the brush wires and take a DC power source and power the motor to check it out. If the motor works good the problem is what is between the rollers and the motor.
Marty this is the part number to the board 6100103100 this is a north pole christmas engine 4-4-2 i have another 4-4-2 engine with mopar express train set i just oil the bearing on the front of the motor and back of the motor it don't say to do that but don't think it will hurt it because i had this for 3 years not a problem with it and i grease the gear very lightly this mopar express engine i have is 24 years old i got it used i had for 3 years i run it alot this north pole engine made in 2003
It seems like you have done all the right things. I would suggest turning the motor like John outlined first, then try what I outlined on testing the motor if it spins free. It would not be uncommon for the new board to be bad from the start. If the motor is ok, you will have to go for another board.
My experience has been the motor, almost always has been the culprit in taking out the
e-unit. Now when I get one in with a bad e-unit, I replace the motor and the e-unit.
Bill
Lionel Factory Trained Repair Tech
Independent Lionel Service Station
Electric RR Dealer
U.S Army Retired
Visit our Web http://www.mttponline.com/
Hi Chessie!
A 2034 motor will solve all your problems as you'll never have to replace a motor again. I see 2034 motors on ebay all the time. Take Care.
Before buying a motor, I'd connect a DC supply directly to the motor and see if it runs normally without excessive current draw. By the time you replace the motor and the board, I'd think you could just buy a new locomotive!
Did you ever verify that the motor turns freely in both directions?
im going to check the motor haven't had a chance to yet but i can fix this engine cheaper then buy a new one the board cost 15.00 and the motor is only 8.00
Yes the motor and board are inexpensive. Testing the motor with DC is only beneficial if if you use an ammeter too. I have plenty of DC motor that seem to run smooth, but take any where from 1 to 2 amps at no load which is way too much. The motor will run on about 100 milli amps at no load. The 103 e-unit is rated for about 3 amps with the TIP 31/32 transistors used. They also usually have a tape around the transistor tabs to insulate the metal tab. It melts when over heated.
With a motor drawing too much current to start, as you run it for an extended time it overheats the transistors, add additional cars and soon one or two of the transistors short out. I have seen boards with the PCB burned through. You are best to change the motor too. G
I'm still mystified about the apparent lack of desire to do simple troubleshooting here before firing from the hip and replacing everything. What happens if it happens to be some other problem than the motor or the board?
I fixed one of these locomotives simply by cleaning smoke fluid out of the motor. Contact cleaner, the kind that does NOT leave a residual lubrication, sprayed on the brushes, cleaned the overflow smoke fluid out and the loco has been running fine for years since then.
I have a similar issue with the same motor. I have tried the 9 volt battery and it does turn both ways but I do not think it is fast enough. Any other ideas?