Problems with my 682 Locomotive

Actually having the same difficulty with my 671. Check the wiring and connections in the cab.

682 probably just needs a minor servicing, including cleaning of the wheels and pickup rollers. I find CRC 2-26 works well on the pickup assemblies. You can't go wrong with lubricating with Labelle lubricants. See the general information on printed pgs 51-54 f this Lionel guide:

https://ogrforum.com/...sories%20%201954.pdf

Most likely cause of the problem, given the clues in your post, some of the goop from the smoke unit has gotten on the piston that makes it puff, this residue can dry up over time and lock up the piston in the bore. Depending on where in the bore it’s stuck will determine if the loco will be able to overcome it and still run, sounds like your 682 is stuck close to the top, hence it will still move, but it’s struggling every time it comes up on the cam lobe....again this going by the clues in your post. Could be other problems, but I’d start there.........Pat

there has to be binding of some kind and you said the 682 draws more current then the 681,either is binding and lubrication or need brushes and maybe to much oil, got on the commutator and will defiantly screw up the  motor from running good. if it turns out to be that case wash commutator and clean brushes and wash with alcohol make sure they are dry before trying to run motor again. the old Lionel engines run great for many years with just a little maintenance oil cleaning and sometimes worn parts need to be replaced!

Hello, and thanks to all for the suggestions. To clarify, I noted last year that 16 volts was the "sweet spot" on the ZW for this 682 to pull the consist, so that isn't a new issue. The new developments are that 1) the smoke unit isn't nearly what it was last year/many years before; and 2) the intermittent stopping/freezing up happened this morning minutes after putting liquid smoke drops in.

Either way, I'm afraid that fixing the problem is above my pay grade, even with the in-depth troubleshooting tips all of you have offered. There is one semi-local train repair person who does ok work so long as it isn't too involved, and thus my options are to either bring it to him or to ship it out to someone for the check-over and fix.

bmoran4 posted:

682 probably just needs a minor servicing, including cleaning of the wheels and pickup rollers. I find CRC 2-26 works well on the pickup assemblies. You can't go wrong with lubricating with Labelle lubricants. See the general information on printed pgs 51-54 f this Lionel guide:

https://ogrforum.com/...sories%20%201954.pdf

Desert Center, you should heed this sage advice. He knows his stuff,  You would be amazed how a little bit of light oil on the moving parts, and Labelle lubricant on the gears transforms a locked up loco into a runner. You can also easily clean the commutator (the copper colored face of the armature) without taking anything apart. There are small openings in the brush plate where a thin Q-Tip soaked in CRC or rubbing alcohol can press against the commutator and remove accumulated grime.

The smoke problem sounds like solidified smoke material accumulating in the smoke chamber, When the locomotive is run on lower voltage, as it would on the the layout shown in your photo, the heater does not get hot enough to vaporize all the smoke material. It cakes on, restricts air flow, and cools the chamber. There is a very simple solution. Increase your track voltage and let the locomotive stand in neutral for a few minutes. The heater element will vaporize the accumulated crud and clear the air vent.  Whenever you have accumulated smoke material the simple cost free solution is heat.  If the cam, which pushes the bellow and gives that "puffing effect," is encrusted with white smoke material, put a hair dryer on it until the material melts off.

Give it a try.

I'd pull the side rods off and see how it runs just to rule out any binding. 

Then pull the shell off and make sure the brass gear on the rear drive axle isn't worn causing binding. 

Steamer posted:

I'd pull the side rods off and see how it runs just to rule out any binding. 

Then pull the shell off and make sure the brass gear on the rear drive axle isn't worn causing binding. 

Hi Dave--

I have removed the shell of my 681 before, but the 682 scares me because of those side linkages: if I don't break them in getting them off, I'm afraid I would damage them and/or not be able to get the pins back in when putting the shell back in place. A man has to know his limitations, and unfortunately I'm simply not a tinkerer.

This morning I did apply lubricant to all axles and joints, and as suggested above I sat the 682 in neutral with the ZW cranked. This did work in clearing up the smoke unit and the 682 made 4 successful rotations around my xmas oval with excellent smoke puffs before coming to a halt underneath the tunnel. Again...unable to go forward or reverse. It's curious how it always seems to stop at the very same point, but by virtue of the fact that my 681 zips along with no problem, I have to assume it's the 682 and not a track/power issue.

I have a 671 and my Uncle's 2020, so I have no hands on with a 682. But just by looking at pics of one, I'm certain that if you take out the side rod bolts from the front driver's (where the side linkage is) this will free them and you can pull the shell off like any Turbine. Take your time, and if something would seem to be holding things up, take a look. We all had to learn how to do these things, and for the most part working on old trains doesn't require a brain surgeon...I'm sure not one! Good Luck! (and once you get the shell off, take a look at things, and run the locomotive and watch.

I did take an extra-extended lunch break today to drop off my 682 with the train repair shop, and by the time I got back to work, he left a message that he'd diagnosed it: a frayed wire touching where it shouldn't be touching. Along with a lube & cleaning I'm all set for $25.

Another question: is a small amount of sparking from the locomotive rollers normal while passing over the center rail of the track?

small amount yes. More than a small amount usually means dirty track and or rollers.

Desert Center CA posted:

I did take an extra-extended lunch break today to drop off my 682 with the train repair shop, and by the time I got back to work, he left a message that he'd diagnosed it: a frayed wire touching where it shouldn't be touching. Along with a lube & cleaning I'm all set for $25.

Wow, that's awesome and sounds more than reasonable. You're fortunate to have such a good resource close by like that. 

Mark in Oregon 

Desert Center CA posted:

I did take an extra-extended lunch break today to drop off my 682 with the train repair shop, and by the time I got back to work, he left a message that he'd diagnosed it: a frayed wire touching where it shouldn't be touching. Along with a lube & cleaning I'm all set for $25.

Another question: is a small amount of sparking from the locomotive rollers normal while passing over the center rail of the track?

Congrats, DC! Glad it all worked out.  Steamer's comment about sparks is spot on. Take some Scotchbrite scouring pads and run them with a little pressure on top of the tracks. NEVER REPEAT NEVER use steel wool or metal abrasive. This should mitigate the sparking considerably.