Proper Lubrication For Marx Post-War Steam Locomotives

Labelle makes lubricants especially for '0' gauge trains.

I use them on my trains and repairs I do. You can't go wrong with them.

Larry

Vasoline is by far the one most recommended by old-time Marxists, and, I am told, it was actually the lube recommended by the factory.

Wish I could give you a good answer but I'm still trying to figure out what to use myself, not only for the few Marx pieces I have but also for my O Gauge stuff I have.  I'm pretty much leaning towards the Labelle line of lubes.

Best of luck

I been using LaBelle products for years without a problem.

An old Marx expert told me to use Vaseline.

Years ago the consensus among local Marx collectors was to NOT use 3 in 1 oil. Something in the 3 in 1 oil was said to attack the old pot metal parts.

The instruction sheet with my 1940's childhood set says to use vaseline, and l still do, but l would think a modern purpose made lubricant would be better.

Hello all, I have not posted much here and really pretty new to the hobby (I picked up a 999 at an estate sale last winter and been hooked). I wanted to share my experience and get some feedback too.

I have spent several years operating an old Chandler and Price press (ca. 1917) and several other early 20th century press and equipment. These do require a lot of maintenance and lubrication - often multiple time a month if operating a lot. I can remember debating what lubricants to use on these and why of years - which brings me to the Marx trains...

First, there are little distinctions between the post-war and pre-war trains - especially if we are talking Marx. Exceptions being some late models with nylon gears - 666 and 333 right? I have found two products that work in just about every application for these old motors.

Mineral Oil - strange as it may seem I use this for all sorts of stuff around the shop. It is basically greasy liquid paraffin wax - a this cousin to Vaseline. Why?

1. Viscosity - thin enough to soak into porous metals - like pot metal, lead, die cast

2. Nonreactive - no corrosive elements

3. Clean - with it being thin, the oil will eventually run out of the motors without leaving that greasy dirt and hair filled waxy blob anyone repairing old motors is familiar with.

4. Laxative - always on hand...

Use for the armature, wheels, rivets, and anything else you think could use some help.

This last point is why I brought up the printing press. It is important to use an oil that flows well and will draw out all the dust and filth that build up inside the closed elements of the press. Sure you have to replace it often - but that's just the nature of it. I use something similar to 3-in-1 on the press for this reason - and mineral oil on the motors for the same.

Waterproof Valve Grease - the stuff you use in fitting gas or pluming valves.

1. Sticky - this is what I would substitute for the Vaseline. Clean and **** near permanently greasy.

2. Waterproof - eliminates the risk of rust and oxidation.

3. Noncorrosive - you wouldn't want to use a corrosive grease in a natural gas or water valves right?

Use for drive gears and rods, pinions, ect.

I use this mainly for the fast moving - high friction parts. Typically on the dive gears so I can replace or clean the grime off if and when it begins to collect.

Cant wait to hear some thought on this, Thanks everyone.

Joshua - The Newbie