Protecting old decals from flaking

Yes. You can use Pledge with future floor shine. Then hit the cab with a clear coat. Unfortunately this will lower the value if you left it original but the flipside your decals will not flake off.

Use    Liquid Decal Film....by....Microscale

Good Product.

I suggest using a matte clear coat on only the decals to match the original sheen as much as possible

If the flaking hasn't happened by now, they are going to be fine. If they were, I would recommend Microscales decal setting solution. Just a drop will reseat the decal on the paint. I personally would not recommend any overspray.

The worst flaking usually occurs on the 624 Chesapeake and Ohio decal

The Future wax with an overcoat is what I use.  I learned the trick from a guy who has models in the Smithsonian.

Thanks for all the advice. I was leaning toward the notion that if it was going to happen it would of by now. I’ll just stay clear of the decales when handling. Time to dig out the 624 C&O

Enjoyed the M1a smooth acceleration Keith!

prrhorseshoecurve posted:

Yes. You can use Pledge with future floor shine. Then hit the cab with a clear coat. Unfortunately this will lower the value if you left it original but the flipside your decals will not flake off.

Agree, though If the decals flake off it will be worth even less.

Smoke Stack Lightnin posted:

Thanks for all the advice. I was leaning toward the notion that if it was going to happen it would of by now. I’ll just stay clear of the decales when handling. Time to dig out the 624 C&O

Enjoyed the M1a smooth acceleration Keith!

The value of Post War in 10 years?? Guessing only lower, if it at all looks like they have issues coat 'em and run 'em!

I used Microscale Micro Set solution on my 2343 Sante Fe with excellent results.  It restored the color to portions of the decals  that looked faded due to lifting.  The softening properties of the solution made the decals swell slightly, virtually eliminating cracks.  The decals look perfect from a few feet away.  lI have treated the decals on all my postwar engines to preserve them.

Regarding value, I'm personally more concerned with appearance than value, but I can't imagine this procedure ruining value. Applying Microset to the decals (do not brush on surrounding paint) only restores them to their original appearance.  Seems to me it would enhance the value!

“Regarding value, I'm personally more concerned with appearance than value, but I can't imagine this procedure ruining value”

IMHO, relatively few locos in this hobby new or old hold value, so I agree with SC. I would add I also concur  prewar and better quality postwar locos will be running long after the life cycle of R/C, barring zinc pest on diecast. I enjoy seeing the harold decals and don’t want them to disintegrate. Is Walter’s decal setting solution basically the same as Micrscale’s?

Rich

Be careful with Walthers brand. It is much stronger than Mircoscales and may distort the decal when drying.

Think I’ll just take your original suggestion and leave well enough alone...Thanks Chuck.

“Regarding value, I'm personally more concerned with appearance than value, but I can't imagine this procedure ruining value”

IMHO, relatively few locos in this hobby new or old hold value, so I agree with SC. I would add I also concur  prewar and better quality postwar locos will be running long after the life cycle of R/C, barring zinc pest on diecast. I enjoy seeing the harold decals and don’t want them to disintegrate. Is Walter’s decal setting solution basically the same as Micrscale’s?

If you have more concern over appearance than value, why not remove what is left of the original decals and apply reproduction decals. (I assume they are still available).

The originals are in tact. I recently read where they are prone to flaking. My intent was to protect the originals. If they do flake, your suggestion would be a good option.

CW, I don't need to replace the decals because they look good after the Microset treatment.  They're not perfect, but you can't see the flaws without close scrutiny.  I think it worked so well because the decals were mostly intact, albeit with some cracks and fading.  My method would not work with decals in poor shape.  Then replacement would be in order.

John