Proto sound 1 problem

To properly do a reset you need to power up before the engine completely shuts down.  You have not executed the reset.  After you hit the program button, raise the throttles before 3 seconds.

First thing I do with a new chip is power up conventionally and let the engine start up.  This can take 3-5 seconds with a new chip as software is processed.  Then lower to 10Vs for the direction change.  Everything should work fine.

If not, then do the Reset 18, but you must cycle power to get the engine out of reset and into an operating state (fwd).

I believe this model was succeptable to ID conflict.  The new chip should have resolved it.  There is a Tech chip to reset these boards if it still has issues.  G

Bill,

You are missing one step when you are trying to use reset 18 using the Z-4000.

After you get the 3 clanks and 3 clinks, you need to press the SELECT again to get the warbled bell sound. Then press PROGRAM.

Now I am confused too.  What reset chip are you using?  I assumed from the video you purchased a new operating chip.

Joe also caught another missed step too.

With the operating chip in the board use the programming button and get to reset state 18.  Then press and hold the select button to get a warbled bell and then a clear bell.  Release the select button, press program to come out of program mode. (Voltage drops to zero); then immediately raise the throttle to get the engine moving.  Don't let it shut down.  This should execute the reset #18.  G

what good is the reset chip, if it does not come with clear and concise instructions for it's use?

Charlie it does:-)  But the thing that confuses people, and the instructions explain it, ...is that the Make PS reset kit is only for engines that give three clanks on start up.  It is not a reset chip for all issues.  G

I have a stranger question. when I use my reset chip and it does it's reset. Mine sounds like a steam engine at first. are there maybe two types one for steam and one for diesel? 

Bill,

1. First the reset chip is only for the 3 clanks of death and it will not work on any other problem but that and your engine doesn't have the 3 clanks of death. MTH repair persons have access to other chips for different scrambles not available to regular customers. 

2. You can just swap top boards on your 2 engines and place the proper chips in them and they should work fine.

3. Otherwise, I suggest you send your board to GGG and he can use his other chips to get the board to work with the Metra chip. I sent him 1 with a classic ID conflict just to see if it could be restored and he was able to do it with his chips.

4. I didn't see you do the proper factory default reset in the video.

If done correctly, it may restore you engine to run correctly.

When I say operating chip, I mean the original PS-1 chip.  You also need to ensure you have a good battery.  I presume you do since the engine can cycle into motion.

Can you manually try to move through the reset states using the Z handle.  Raise the voltage to full, and cycle the handle quickly down about 1/2 (12) way and back up.  Do you get one clink?  Do it again and see if you get 2 clinks.  If so, continue to do it until you get 3 clanks and 3 clinks.  Then press the whistle button and hold to get the warbled bell, then clear bell.  If so, lower voltage to zero and come back up to about 10 and see if the engine runs with sound.  If not, the tech chips need to be used to restore the board.  G

Bill,

Did you try a reset 18 again to see if it will work first? I would try this first as you didn't do it right in the video and is worth a try. It will also get you familiar with doing other programming such as horn in neutral which I do on every PS! engine since I use a Z-4000 also.

1. With the handles in the off position, press PROGRAM

2. Bring it up to 18

3. Press SELECT

4. Listen for the 3 clinks and 3 clanks

5. Press SELECT until you hear the garbled bell sound

6. Then press PROGRAM to lock in the reset

It should now be ready to run next time you want to run the engine. The engine will come up in reset as usual when first powered up. Wait a few seconds for the engine to warm up and then move the throttle to off slowly and then back up and your engine should move forward if it just needed to be reset to factory defaults.

I agree Joe, I even gave him the manual method.

A correction or 2 for your instructions though.  When pressing Select for garbled bell, you then have to press it a second time for clear bell.  Or hold it until clear bell is heard.

After pressing program, you are suppose to immediately advance the throttle to come out of reset state and start engine movement.  G

G,

Your are right on the holding the SELECT until you hear the garbled bell sound and I'll correct it above. Thanks for catching my mistake in printing. It's been to hot working in 95 degree weather, LOL

But when you press the PROGRAM the last time, it locks in the reset and you shouldn't need to raise the throttle handle to lock it in. That step is for doing it manually as with a ZW.

Joe,  When you press the program button the at the end, it actually turns off voltage and returns control to the handle which is at zero voltage.  So the engine is timing out to shut down.

I went back and read the tech manual and it has you raise the handle back up to voltage and that moves you out of reset state and into forward.

I just remember reading instructions that stated you needed to move out of the reset state you made an adjustment on to ensure the change was taken.  I have never done it the other way.  It may accept the reset 18 even if you don't power up, but I always do.

I hear you about the heat, but it is the humidity that is killing me!  G

It may accept the reset 18 even if you don't power up, but I always do.

That's right G, just by pressing  PROGRAM the last time on the Z-4000, it will lock in the reset feature without using the throttle handle. You can wait, but you don't have to, until the engine is completely shut down and the engine will still accept the feature change.

Another hot one today, 97 degrees & humid here

Well, I got the engine fixed. The reset just didn't work, I had an extra top board and changed it out. It now works fine. very strange what happened, But it is all good now.

Thanks to this forum, I wouldn't of known were to go and how to get this engine fixed. Thanks to my buddy Buzz Lee who recommended this to me.

Thank you so much gentlemen, I tip my hat to you.

Bill,

Probably was a ID conflict with the Metra chip. Save the board as it probably will work with another.