Proto Upgrade on a MTH 1218 Steamer

Porsche1662 posted:

HI Guys, I have a 20-3036-1 Steam engine thats proto 1.0 that I would like to upgrade. Does anyone offer this service that I can ship this unit too ? I think its above my skills to do myself and I like it too much to attempt.

 

 

Engine House Hobbies in Gaithersburg, MD offers upgrades. Granted it isn't a cheap project but EHH will do a great job. www.enginehousehobbies.net

hi Joe check your email, would be glad to upgrade the engine for you!

Alan

I also do upgrades and provide warranty.  G

GGG is FANTASTIC.  He upgraded my dead PS2 FEF and then walked me through some issues I was having on upgrading my first PS1 to PS32 (N&W J) upgrade. 

FWIW, I just upgraded my 20-3036 1218 two weeks ago.  It posed some challenges for my 2nd engine upgrade, but they were overcome fairly easily.  There were questions I had that I didn't ask GGG, but I'm sure he would have offered opinions/solutions:

1) The headlight on that engine runs off what I would term a second CV board on the frame, as opposed to the one in the boiler.  I followed the instructions and replaced this light and connected it to the PS32 headlight connector, such that the DCS remote can turn on/off the headlight.  I think one could have let it run off the 2nd CV board and left it alone.  Not sure what GGG would do, but trust his advice if he offers it.  There might be some special attention that needs to be paid the keeping the wires out of the articulated frame if you go the route I did.  I think I got them out of the way, but not sure I would do it this way again, just for the ability to turn on/off the headlight.

2) The mount for the tachometer probably can't be mounted at the 12 o'clock position as the instructions indicate, due to tight clearances - thanks to Bruce for calling that out and recommending mounting at 4:30pm or 7:30pm position.  The plastic mount had to be trimmed and modified to do this.

3) The mounting of the PS32 board in the tender was relatively easy - the holes lined up with the old board, just needed to be opened up slightly.  Only the hole for the heatsink had to be added.

4) There is some intricate wiring harnessing that is needed to keep the wires away from the drive mechanism(s).

At $200 per upgrade kit, and the warning that comes along with the kit, once you open the anti-static bag, the board you bought is yours.  No warranty.  No nothing.  And it's easy to fry it.  Trust me.  I did it on that J that GGG helped me with.  But that's a different story.  GGG - incoming email....

Dave