ProtoSound downgrade?

WHY COULDN'T YOU GUT EVERYTHING EXCEPT THE MOTORS AND INSTALL AN ELECTRONIC REVERSE UNIT LIKE FROM DALLEE ELECTRONICS ??

IT WOULD BE BETTER THAN MAKING IT JUST A DUMMY UNIT.

I HAVE A LIONEL SEABOARD U30C DEAD IN THE WATER - $200+ DOWN THE CRAPPPER AND I MAY JUST TRY IT MYSELF.

FREIGHTRAIN 

An issue will be matching the voltage requirements of the headlight and other lights.  Another issue will be coupler operation.

Yes, It is not hard to do.  Install an Electronic reverse unit that is suitable for the engines.  If it is AC pullmore motor, you will need an AC reverse unit, or mechanical E-unit.  If they are DC can motors, the Williams, Dallee, older DCRU, and Lionel Electronic reverse units will all work.

Lighting can be powered from the track with 16-18Volt bulbs or use a Constant Voltage board and 6V bulbs, or go with LEDs.

If this is a PS-1 unit, the smoke unit will be powered from the track already.

Knowing which system is installed will allow the mod to be custom tailored for what is already installed.  G

"Thanks" to each of you for your responses. After reviewing the Dallee website and their products, I think this is exactly the answer I'm looking for.  

This particular model I have reminds me of the old SLSF GP35's I used to run: you come out on the throttle and they just rev and sit there. ( I don't want to be reminded of that). 

Is this a ProtoSound One MTH Engine?  It could be an easy fix, or you remove the sound processor and just use the bottom DCRU board.   G

I realize that my problem can be fixed thru battery changes and/or chip re-programs, etc., but my problem is, I view all those efforts as a recurring nag and a pain.  I want to eliminate them, and leave myself with the expected maintenance of a routine gear lube and occassional bulb change.  The reason I bought MTH was that the detail is outstanding, and the price I paid was extremely low.  But as I stated in the beginning, all those "frills and gadgets" don't impress me...especially when you come out on the throttle and it just sits there.  I have no problem with scrapping the computer to gain something that gets trains over the road.

I think that Mr. "GGG" above hit it on the head. I'Ve done a number of these conversions and they are fun and easy. The addition of LED'S

adds a neat factor that makes it a real "upgrade."

doc

Rob,  That is ok.  You already have a reverse unit similiar to the DALLEE installed.  All you need to do is pull the top board off the bottom board, add a couple of jumpers and you will have a reverse unit without sound, chip or need for a battery.  The will even keep your directional lighting active.  You can even plug in a horn board and get a basic horn with the existing speaker still with no battery or chip.  Cost to you Zero (unless you want a horn).  

This is the first time I have participated with this website forum, and I am very pleased with the great responses. Thanks again!

What needs to be jumpered after the top board is removed?

As you are looking down on the bottom board and the 2 relays are on your left and the 2 micro chips on the right:

The connecter furthest away gets a u shaped jumper into the B1 (2 slots furthest to the right) and one in the B2 (next 2).

Then on the closest connector L1 and L2 can be jumpered or you can use a switch.  This can lock the reverse unit into a position when switch is opened.  If you jumper it will always work as a reverse unit.  L1 and L2 are position 3 and 4 from the left.  G

I have forward motion, but no reverse yet. (I'm still thrilled).  With the board oriented as you said, here is what I did:

JP2

o  o  o  o  0  0  0  0

o  o  o  o  0  0  0  0

               L2    L1

JP3



It doesn't respond to the forward-neutral-reverse throttle cycle, nor the direction toggle switch.

Rob, only one jumper for L1/L2.  It connects L1 to L2.  From the left connect position 3 to 4.  Your rendition of L1 and L2 are too far to the right.  Your top jumpers are correct. G

This isn't working, but it is my suspicion that the previous owner released the "pre-installed smoke" from the unit before they took it to the pawn shop.  The motors work, but only forward.  I think it will be more entertaining to remove the MTH board and replace it with a Dallee or Lionel reverse unit.  And it looks as though I won't have to go near the board that controls the headlights.

Many thanks to all who responded.  This forum is very impressive.

Rob does it stay in fwd when you cycle the reverse unit or does it go to neutral and another neutral where reverse would be?  Sounds close like your close.   G

When you come out on the throttle it only goes forward.  When you close the throttle and reopen, it does not cycle to neutral; it goes forward again.

That sounds like a lock out.  Are you using a switch or jumper between L1 and L2?  I would check that connection.  It is possible the micro chip was damaged with the first jumper configuration you used, that connected outputs from one of the chips.

I have a replacement board if you need one.  You can contact me via my e-mail profile.  G

I've also have a QSI reverse board...I've going to take that out of my 3rd rail S2 turbine.. going to put proto 1 in it.. heres another board ..that might interest you..dont know if it would work or not..http://www.ebay.com/itm/Williams-by-Bachman-00247-Reverse-Board-/140754600302?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item20c5a0c16e

The "downgrade" was successful!  I now have an F3 containing a reverse unit, horn board, and no battery to change.  All the lighting still functions including the mars light.  Here is a thumbs up to GGG !!