Updated 12/17/2019:
Just because I needed the aggravation, a couple of days ago Samantha attempted to jump up onto my desk. She didn't make it, pulling the camera down to the floor with her. It's toast. So now I have to shop for a replacement.
Pumpkin (I miss her) was a genius. This one, not so much.
George
Sorry about the camera, George. So goes the life of a pet owner! 
Tom
Ugh!!!
Updated 12/20/2019:
The styrofoam for the tunnel portal and hillside above it was installed today. I used the method (styrofoam, Great Stuff, low loft quilt batting) described in this link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lzhcvqzk6N4
Also, the January issue of O Scale Trains arrived today. Surprise, surprise, my article on workshop organization was in it. 
George
Looks great
G3750 posted:Updated 12/20/2019:
The styrofoam for the tunnel portal and hillside above it was installed today. I used the method (styrofoam, Great Stuff, low loft quilt batting) described in this link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lzhcvqzk6N4
Also, the January issue of O Scale Trains arrived today. Surprise, surprise, my article on workshop organization was in it.
George
Thanks for that I enjoyed seeing something new and might even use it in the future
Updated 12/25/2019:
Merry Christmas everyone!!!
I discovered this video of the Weirton area on Youtube yesterday.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k3gnTgkUZzo
I reviewed the video and noted some items of interest in the timeline.
1:42: Brown’s Island. As the camera moves north (upriver) you’ll see a cleared area. That’s the former site of the Weirton Steel Coke plant. Note the bridge to the WV side (Weirton Steel) at 2:40.
3:55: We are now at the extreme northern end of Weirton headed south (downriver).
5:07: The other (WV side) of the bridge to Brown’s Island is visible to the right of the picture. The train tracks are the former PRR New Cumberland Secondary.
5:13: Weirton Steel’s ore yard is dead center.
5:24: Just beyond the ore bridge to the left is Weirton Steel’s No. 4 Blast Furnace. The street to the left of it is 4th Street. The Greek Orthodox Church used to be on that spot. It was sold, disassembled, and moved farther to the left up to County Road where it still exists. 4th Street is crossed by Main Street.
5:29: We are flying straight up the Highline of the blast furnaces – 4, 3, 2, and 1. No. 4 is the latest (youngest) and the largest capacity blast furnace.
5:41: The mill to the left is a warehouse. To its left is the mill wall and Main Street. The field beyond the blast furnaces was once the site of the Open Hearth, the Structural Mill, the Blooming Mill, and the powerhouse.
5:53: The elevated highway going left to right is Main Street. Near the top of the frame, where it crosses the tracks, is Crawford’s Crossing.
5:56: The large mill in the frame is the Basic Oxygen Plant (BOP). Built in 1967, it was referred to as “the mill of the future”. The large space to its left was originally occupied by part of the shell factory (which the BOP replaced).
5:59: At the extreme lower left you can see a small part of the Mill Administration Building (MAB). The road above the green line is Weir Avenue. Between Weir Avenue and the mill, where the green line makes a 90 degree bend, is the beginning of Terrace Circle. My maternal grandparents lived there until Weirton Steel bought the neighborhood for the BOP.
6:53: In this frame, the mill to the left of the tracks is the HCl acid recycling plant. The coil yard is to the right. Cove Road cuts across the frame left to right; City of Weirton municipal building is along Cove Road to the right. The blue train bridge spans Harmon Creek.
7:04: To the left of the green line is the Panhandle
7:56: Where the ramp at the right splits and crosses over the tracks is the approximate site of WC tower (to the left of the tracks).
8:01: The piles to the right may be the former Standard Slag. I’m not sure.
8:33: The tracks in the center of the frame curve to the right and onto the ex-PRR bridge (top center). The Veterans Memorial bridge (automobile) is visible at top right.
George
and these are sure sad looking sights nowadays
I am glad to are recreating the past in layout form!
Updated 1/03/2020:
I am working through the scenery placement and construction around the tunnel portal on the C&P. This is on the western shore of the Ohio, just under and north of the bridge. I have constructed foam hills and placed ground foam (varying colors). The next step is the selection and installation of trees to mate up with the backdrop. It's a bit slow going, but I'm hoping to have this part done soon.
The shoreline itself and the ballasting of track is next. I will then install a stone wall around the base of the western bridge abutment, apply ground foam to its top, and declare victory in Ohio.
The WV shore and eastern approach to the bridge will be next.
George
I’m glad you are making progress!!
Updated 1/25/2020:
I haven't posted in awhile, but things are moving. I still haven't replaced my camera (using my iPhone 6), but I intend to do so. Scenery on the Steubenville side of the river is nearing completion. I am in the process of painting some detail parts that will go on the river bank and in the water. Here's my take at 2 blue herons.
George
George, I am no ornithologist, but are Blue Herons really that blue? My computer colors might be off, but just thought I'd ask?
Chuck
Great idea for herons, George. They do look a little too deep blue to me, but it could be the camera or my monitor.
Great catch Chuck and Mark!
Maybe I should call them my Electric Blue Herons! 
I had a discussion about these at the hobby store and came home with a new color. The herons are soaking in acetone to remove their paint. We'll try again later this week.
George
Updated 1/28/2020:
Well, I have come to a decision. I started looking at the eastern (WV) shoreline and terrain and realized I made a mistake. Back in 2017 I incorrectly specified the dimensions of Pier 1 (the shorty). On the real bridge, pier 1 is the oldest, a holdover from the second bridge. It is smaller (length & width) and has no taper. I've been trying to make my incorrectly dimensioned version work ever since. I've come to the realization that it won't. The pier will need propping up in a Rube Goldberg fashion and I'm done with that approach.
Here are some photos in which you can see Pier 1 and its siblings.
In the following photo, Pier 2 is to the left and Pier 1 is to the right. At the extreme right is the stone arch.
Here Pier 1 is to the left and Pier 2 is on the right (in the river). Pier 2 is a so-called "pocket pier".
Here's a closer view of Pier 1 taken from the river.
Another photo of Pier 1 taken from the river.
As a result of this decision, I've gone back to my machine shop with new, more accurate dimensions and expect to have a replacement Pier 1 in about 3 weeks.
I guess the next steps in this descent into OCD is to join the P1:48 cult and tear the 3rd rail out of my track. 
More when I know it (or when they let me out of the asylum). 
George
George, When you are trying to make an accurate model and then realizes something is wrong, the best thing is to go back and fix it.
They closed Mayview, so they will have to take you farther away to the nearest asylum. 
I'd be grumbling under my breath(hopefully instead of aloud) for weeks.
Updated 2/7/2020:
Two steps back.
The Chooch stone (self-stick + aided with E-6000) on the Stone Arch is peeling away. It looks terrible. I pulled off the stone and will replace it with the stone paper (from the Evans Design program Brickyard). I am now in the process of scraping off the residual self-stick adhesive and E-6000. 
I've also decided to re-do the river bottom coloring experiment. This is based on input I received from the scenery class I'm taking.
Some times you get the elevator...
George
Wow! My daughter first introduced me to E-6000 saying it will stick to almost anything. You have learned what it doesn't do. I wonder if there was some chemical reaction between the E-6000 and the self stick stuff. You are right, correct the problem now!
Mark Boyce posted:Wow! My daughter first introduced me to E-6000 saying it will stick to almost anything. You have learned what it doesn't do. I wonder if there was some chemical reaction between the E-6000 and the self stick stuff. You are right, correct the problem now!
Mark,
I love the stuff. But I think you are exactly right - it probably reacted to the self stick junk Chooch puts on their products. By the way, I like the look of the vinyl but their self-stick glue is horrible. True PITA.
George
George & Mark, I never heard of E-6000 before now. At first, I was thought it was some sort of locomotive like the M-10000! Don't use the M-10000 to glue your parts together! 
I guess I lead a sheltered life...in Googling "E-6000," I also came up with a glue Scotch puts out that I never heard of either, if it helps you...looks like Walmart sells it. https://www.walmart.com/ip/3M-...N70YvKhoChjsQAvD_BwE
Not sure why the link needs to be that long! (edit...when I originally put in the link it was like 10 lines long)
Tom
Tom, I never heard of it either until my daughter brought it to my attention about 5 years ago. I have some and used it, and it worked good on whatever I used it on. It must have, since I forgot what I used it on, it didn't fall apart. That's a good one about the M-10000!! Yes, I see that is some long link,
George, I'll have to keep that in mind about the Chooch self stick not being what we would hope it is. Chooch's products do look so realistic, I'll probably buy some as my layout moves to the scenicing phase.
Updated 2/10/2020:
I just finished building an 18 "pond" test board for river undercoats. Each one will get a different undercoat and then 1/4" of Deep Pour Murky Water. We'll see what looks best for the Ohio River.
More when I know it.
George
Updated 2/12/2020:
Yesterday I acquired a new Pier #1 for the bridge. Prototype photos first.
In the first photo, you can see Pier 2 in the foreground (it's a "pocket" pier situated in the river) with Pier 1 in the background.
The second photo gives a clearer view of Pier 1 from north of the bridge. Note the difference in coloration between the two photos.
Now, here is the new Pier #1 and the span between it and the stone arch.
And this is a better look at Pier 2.
Now, let's look at both piers. Compare these next two photos with the first one.
Next steps are to identify the correct coloration, paint the pier, and then weather it appropriately.
More when I know it.
George
Your piers look accurate now! My compliments to the person making your piers!!
look just like the real ones I went past today
Very nice job on the pier, sure looks realistic.
Thanks, gentlemen!
Next step is a field trip to accurately determine the color.
George
Mark Boyce posted:Tom, I never heard of it either until my daughter brought it to my attention about 5 years ago. I have some and used it, and it worked good on whatever I used it on. It must have, since I forgot what I used it on, it didn't fall apart. That's a good one about the M-10000!!
George, I'll have to keep that in mind about the Chooch self stick not being what we would hope it is. Chooch's products do look so realistic, I'll probably buy some as my layout moves to the scenicing phase.
Updated 2/14/2020:
Mark, I'd give that idea a real second thought. I am still mad as h*** about this Chooch junk. 
I got most of the glue residue off the sides of the stone arch. The underside (inside the arch) is another matter. I tried using acetone. I scrubbed it. I picked at it. I tried GooGone. I tried Goof-Off. And I tried a wire brush. It's very slow going.
I fired up the Evans Design Brickyard program and printed some stone paper. I have glued the stone paper onto some thin styrene sheet. I will see how durable that is. Appearance (so far) seems fine.
I have some DAP Weldwood (non-flammable) Contact Cement on order. Should arrive tomorrow. If the Elmer's doesn't keep the paper stuck to the styrene, we'll try the contact cement. If it does hold, we'll take the next step, gluing the styrene to the wood sides of the arch. That will be done with either E-6000 or (more likely) the contact cement.
More when I know it.
George
Updated 2/15/2020:
Elmer's Glue-All for paper to styrene: Epic fail.
Next up: DAP Weldwood contact cement.
George
This Forum doesn't have a 'Don't Like' selection. Well you found another way that doesn't work.
Mark Boyce posted:This Forum doesn't have a 'Don't Like' selection. Well you found another way that doesn't work.
It's OK, Mark. That which does not kill us, makes us stronger. I am in the process of finding a way that does work.
George
Updated 2/16/2020:
Here are some photos of progress made today. First, is a shot of the test ponds. I got some of them painted with the shore line color - Desert Clay. Later today or tomorrow, I will paint the river bottoms with the colors to be evaluated.
Next, I found a way to get my Evans Design software and my Brother printer to make ledger sized (11" x 17") stone paper. One of these will go on a piece of styrene backing cut to the exact dimensions of the side of the stone arch. This will avoid the need to print 2 pieces of paper and then try to fit them together. That could be difficult when using contact cement - you only get 1 chance. 
More when I know it.
George
Updated 2/18/2020:
The Dremel tool with the sanding drums has proven the most effective approach, but it is still limited by the short shank of the tool. The amount of gunk (glue residue) coming out of the arch is amazing. I'm thinking about acquiring a slightly larger sander or other tool - not quite sure yet what I will need.
The river bottoms (1-12) have been painted and their paints logged. I'm mixing the Deep Pour Water in the morning.
More when I know it.
George
I am amazed you are still getting gunk off of it!!!
Sounds very interesting George. Deep pour water, can't wait to see what that looks like.
Updated 2/25/2020:
Based on what I learned on Saturday (check out the Bridge Expedition thread in the Real Trains sub-forum), I started painting the new Pier 1. So far, so good.
More when I know it.
George
Updated 2/28/2020:
By saturating the area with Oops, using sanding drums (bought a set of assorted sizes from Harbor Freight), and applying a fair amount of elbow grease, I've managed to get most of the gunk off the stone arch. 
But I'm really unhappy with Chooch (allegedly) self-stick stone walls. Their adhesive is ****. 
George
Your experience has definitely been burned into my memory. I'll not use the self stick.
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