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I just finished upgrading a PS-1 GP38-2 to PS-3 using MTH new PS-3 Diesel Kit 50-1912.  Here are some items that will help others.  The current instructions are not worthy of use. It is a modified PS-2 book, and if you have not done one before, or are familiar with MTH wiring protocol you can get yourself into trouble.  For the tech and experienced folks this should help.

 

PS-3 Supplement instructions

PS-3 board has Flash Code 3239.  When I tried using this with PS-2 Sound file or a PS-3 sound file there was no control of LED function other then Head Light on and off via DCS.  I believe this is a test all code so you definitely need to load the appropriate diesel flash code for the engine you are upgrading.

This was a GP38 so I used a 2014 Sound file which worked fine with flash and sound file loaded.

Some things to consider:

In general Blue wire is Positive Voltage and used as common for couplers and Heater element.

Purple is common PCB ground and used for LEDs, Volume/Smoke Pot and tach reader common

LEDs are parallel wired when double

Marker LEDs are still series wired

The tach wires were soldered to the lower 3 holes, this prevents the tach reader from fully inserting into the bracket.  I had to resolder them to the upper 3 holes.

No MARs 2 included.

No Beacon is included.

Smoke Heat PV is a blue wire not purple if you are following the instructions.

The Heater has 2 brown wires available for return, and the fan motor has 2 green available.

The number boards are all driven off one return wire.  So 4 total LED controlled as one.

The Markers are also controlled by one wire.  So you could leave an older PS-1 Marker harness alone, just rewire each LED set to series vice parallel if not already series.

Spend 15 minutes or so using the provided chart to identify the wires on the harness.  You will need to untangle and I recommend removing wires not needed.

The harness has a switch for DCC/DCS.  This is not explained in the instructions, but when connected you are in DCS mode.  Open is DCC.  It is a large switch and fits nicely in the Coupler or Smoke On/OFF slot.

Both Volume pots have the same color wire, so you need to identify via terminal number using the provided chart.

These harness are extra-long, and this is fine wire so I did not shorten, I just bundled neatly and used wraps to keep in order.

I removed harness wires not needed to make it neater.

LED fit nicely in the bulb insulators and they do light up nicely.

You do get Rule 17 lighting and interior light goes off with motion either direction.

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Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

George great job , I will be starting my first upgrade soon, would you recommend a ps2 3 volt kit first or the ps3 kit with ps2 directions .

50-1901 or 50-1911, I'm only doing steam engine first and they are both proto 1 engines preferably 4-8-8-4 big boys engines I want one of each PS 3 NEW KIT AND PS 2 older kits!

thanks, got any ideas George I have the color schematic of the internal wiring in color from an old ps2 kit wiring off of this forum!

Alan

I am amazed at all the wiring that go's to make everything work. I would really like to learn how to do this my self. GGG when you are installing and repairing do use or need any kind of tools form MTH trains> I once have seen a item made from mth i think it was for trouble shooting it had all sorts of places you could plug in your engine electronics and test for lights sound ect. ect.

Originally Posted by repair technician:

George great job , I will be starting my first upgrade soon, would you recommend a ps2 3 volt kit first or the ps3 kit with ps2 directions .

50-1901 or 50-1911, I'm only doing steam engine first and they are both proto 1 engines preferably 4-8-8-4 big boys engines I want one of each PS 3 NEW KIT AND PS 2 older kits!

thanks, got any ideas George I have the color schematic of the internal wiring in color from an old ps2 kit wiring off of this forum!

Alan

Either for steam.   G

Originally Posted by Billy:

I am amazed at all the wiring that go's to make everything work. I would really like to learn how to do this my self. GGG when you are installing and repairing do use or need any kind of tools form MTH trains> I once have seen a item made from mth i think it was for trouble shooting it had all sorts of places you could plug in your engine electronics and test for lights sound ect. ect.

No special tools, but having the board tester allows you to make sure the board works and what the lighting scheme is without the engine.

 

Frankly, the most important tool after the solder iron, is the 3mm tap.  G

You are the man!  No need for the test set when your on watch.

Flattery will get you nowhere GGG.  But seriously, nothing, no nothing, beats being D&L-----dumb & lucky.  Haven't hit any situations yet where there were issues the cure for which wasn't apparent.  Of course, I haven't tackled any of the unusual locos or failures that come across your workbench.

 

Didn't want Casey to have the idea that one shouldn't tackle an upgrade without the tester that is only sold to MTH techs.  Do you disagree with that view?

 

Originally Posted by RJR:

You are the man!  No need for the test set when your on watch.

Flattery will get you nowhere GGG.  But seriously, nothing, no nothing, beats being D&L-----dumb & lucky.  Haven't hit any situations yet where there were issues the cure for which wasn't apparent.  Of course, I haven't tackled any of the unusual locos or failures that come across your workbench.

 

Didn't want Casey to have the idea that one shouldn't tackle an upgrade without the tester that is only sold to MTH techs.  Do you disagree with that view?

 

RJR, Casey is an MTH Tech. So your not telling him anything he doesn't know.

 

I was only answering Billy's question.  Never stated that it is a must have for upgrades.

 

It is a very useful tool for troubleshooting an engine, and if I already have it, why wouldn't I use it to load sound files in a simple manner with no track required.   Is that a needle?   G

How do I know Casey's status?  He asked a question that Is read as inquiring whether a $400 tester is required for an upgrade.  I said I never needed one.  Then you sent a needle.  Has nothing to do with usefulness of the tester;  certaimly there are many tools that are useful and helpful, but not absolutely needed to do a job.

Pete, Yes with some caveats.

 

For the Diesel PS-3 you will load a PS-3 file so you will be using newer engine PS-3 files.  The latest consumer loader has a separate icon for flash loading, and one for sound file loading.  These are 2 separate functions.  Can do in either order.

 

But, occasionally a PS-3 file only has the sound file not flash (zip file) in it and sometimes they are not listed so you have to search engine by engine type.

 

In my case I searched on GP38-2, then screened by Premier, then screened by year choosing 2014 to fine a file.  I checked the feature page and saw it had lights types required (most PS-3 have everything) and used it.

 

PS-32 for Steam is different since it is meant to use PS-2 Sound files.   So just loading the sound file is the same as a PS-2 engine.

 

(Edit)  Steam does come with correct Flash code pre installed.

 

Otherwise just 2 separate loads into the board.   Flash takes a few minutes (4-6), and a large PS-3 can take 10-20mins.  G

Last edited by GGG
Originally Posted by RJR:

How do I know Casey's status?  He asked a question that Is read as inquiring whether a $400 tester is required for an upgrade.  I said I never needed one.  Then you sent a needle.  Has nothing to do with usefulness of the tester;  certaimly there are many tools that are useful and helpful, but not absolutely needed to do a job.

Well you could start by reading my profile for one 

 

The PS3 test fixture is handy as GGG states for loading soundfiles and figuring out lighting...as in which ports are doing what. When considering the PS3 board uses a 2x20 row plug for lights then figuring out lighting via the old PS2 way of "dumb luck" may not be the best idea...or it may be very time consuming.

 

Personally I'm exiting the proprietary DCS world and venturing into the world of open source DCC  

Casey, when I see a simple question, as I took your post, I don't read a profile.  Just try to help the poster and move on.  I note that many techs list that fact at the end of their posts.

 

Your point about the PS3 wiring is well-taken.  I never claimed to have done a PS3, only PS2.  I agree a board would be handy to sort out 40 wires if one does many upgrades.  Handy, but not necessary.

Thanks for the wiring info. I done a steam and everything went great. On my diesel upgrade I couldn't believe the wire colors were wrong on the schematic as compared to the steam. Finally traced the wires back to the 40 pin plug got everything except the smoke unit figured out.  That's where the wire color info was a great help.

Thanks to all.

Regards,

Mike

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