Hi everyone
I have an old MTH engine that was in storage for years and i put a BCR into it and it works but non of the sound works, i took it to a MTH authorized repair center and i can put in a Protosound 3/2 stacker board or a single PS3 upgrade board which would have to convert all the lights over to led, all my lights are all working anyone have any experience with these 2 boards ? are they both pretty reliable ?
Regards
Prentice
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A product number would be useful. If this is an older 5 volt model the speaker could be bad. Don't power it back up until you verify the speaker is in good shape.
Also check the remote that all the individual sounds are turned up.
@H1000 posted:A product number would be useful. If this is an older 5 volt model the speaker could be bad. Don't power it back up until you verify the speaker is in good shape.
we checked the speaker and it was ok the audio amplifier on the board was bad i think the P/N of the new stacker board is AE10000355V it is a older 5 volt engine
The audio amp on the 5V PS/2 board can be replaced...
@gunrunnerjohn posted:The audio amp on the 5V PS/2 board can be replaced...
But is it worth replacing, if i do the Protosound 3/2 stacker board i have PS-3 with capacitors instead of batteries
is the protosound 3/2 stacker board more reliable than the original PS-2 5V board ?
Well, it's worth it to me. It's true that the newer boards will almost surely be more reliable than the aging 5V board, but you might get years of service from that 5V board for the investment in a $5 amplifier chip.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Well, it's worth it to me. It's true that the newer boards will almost surely be more reliable than the aging 5V board, but you might get years of service from that 5V board for the investment in a $5 amplifier chip.
the amplifier chip, does that have to be unsoldered and the new one resoldered to the board or is it a plug in type ?
@pphegena posted:the amplifier chip, does that have to be unsoldered and the new one resoldered to the board or is it a plug in type ?
Soldered. A royal pain IMO because of the nearby surface mount components to the through hole leads of amplifier package style chip.
I have a $300+ desoldering tool (Hako FR301) and even with it, I consider this job a challenge.
I've done a bunch of them, I have no issues doing the job. I first clip off the amplifier SIP, then clean out the holes, and finally solder the new part in. The trick is to heat the two close connector shells and pull them off the pins to give yourself room to work.
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