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Hello, All!

The locomotives in question are the Lionel General and Texas Chasers (6-58507).  I am attempting to run them on the same track and would like them both to stay in the "forward-only" position.  I have followed the instructions to lock them.  The problem is, they do not stay locked.

I am running them in conventional mode and 1 locomotive stays in the block track section in the off position.  When the other hits the activation track, the stationary locomotive is supposed to get power and take off.  Every so often, after a route or two, the loco in the stationary track will take off in reverse.  It seems to happen with either locomotive in either position so it doesn't strike me as a specific mechanical or electronic issue.

Does the "forward-only" position have a time-out?  The route takes about the same time for each circuit so there is a fairly consistent time between the locomotive stopping and starting up again.

Again, I have followed the instruction for locking it in forward only (numerous times!!).  I have also accounted for the run/lock switches possibly being wired backwards, as well.

Thanks,

Dennis

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I was trying to let others chime in who might have direct experience with this engine, so here is my stab at it.

First, we look up the guts of what you got https://www.lionelsupport.com/...e-Chase-Generals-Set

And we find it's a "low current" electronic E-unit (that name alone bothers me) but is hopefully not the cause.

One possible answer, the lock switch itself, the contacts might not actually be making constant contact and that's how we get a unit that doesn't stay locked.

Or

I do not have experience with that specific low current reverse board to know if this is a systemic problem of the design. The how it stores the state is traditionally a capacitor holding the logic circuit in the previous cycle.

The manual even talks about how the unit will default (when not locked) to forward, and hat's honestly how most electronic E-units work anyway, they use a capacitor to store a charge and eventually it completely discharges and then you are at the beginning of the logic cycle states like a reset.

From the manual https://www.lionelsupport.com/...50LCCA440General.pdf

"Additionally, this reverse unit has a “power-up reset” feature. If the locomotive sits without power for a short period of time, the reverse unit will automatically reset and start in the forward direction when the transformer is turned on or “powered up,” if the reverse unit switch position is in the ON position."



So now we are at the conclusion side of this, and being 2 engines do it, they both have the same board, so either they got a set of bad switches, or we just ran smack into a "design constraint "(yeah, that's what well call it) of that E unit.

I doubt you have 2 bad E-units as that board clearly has solid state capacitors which are pretty reliable. So then that puts us at wiring up a bridge rectifier to the motor and calling it good. Heck in theory, one could find the points on that board and use the board rectifier bypassing the reversing output.

Last edited by Vernon Barry

Darn it. I thought maybe I had the high current version you linked. Nope, I have the lower current version similar but not the same exact one you have in your engine 691-EUN1-A00. This came out of a Polar Express Freight engine 6-30184 https://www.lionelsupport.com/...Loco-Only-6108768001

And the problem here is, Lionel parts is listing the newer A01 board you have in your engines as a replacement, so I'm not testing apples to apples. Testing this board, at least on the bench worked in direction lock but I don't know how to specify you would get this exact version of board.

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I would hope the high current board works, it's higher current rated so this in theory is a better safety margin in case of a stalled or high load motor condition, and most important, it "should" work -and by work, I mean specifically direction lock works and is not "wonky". But not having one on hand or in any engine I have handy to test before I tell you it is good before you go buying 2 of them.

I'm still at wondering if you have a bad lock switch? Since you had the engine open, what if you soldered the 2 leads to the lockout switch together? Just trying to eliminate the cheap easy fix first.

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