Question RE: Best Glue/Adhesive

PRR #1(Bob),

There's a good guide for your needs on the Micro Mark website, http://www.micromark.com

for plastic models I like to use Plastic weld. it actually softens

the plastic and the two pieces "weld" together. In stubborn instances

I use super glue. When all else fails, epoxy.

Any of the liquid cements for plastic actually melt or weld the plastic pieces together.   However, some are general purpose like Plastruct Plastic Weld for ABS, Styrene, Butyrate, and Acrylic to itself or each other. Others may only work on one particular type or only bond similar plastics to each other. .Testors is another general purpose plastic cement.

Gorilla Brand!...several different blends dependant upon your need!

I like Plastruk Plastic welder or Testor's tube glue depending.  Plastruck is superior in my mind by a small margin.  It use it when I can and on small joints because it pulls itself into cracks, etc., by capillary action.  On the other hand, while Testor's won't do that, it tends to stay "wet" for longer as I am applying it (Plastruck evaporates quickly) so I use it when I'm taking a minute of mroe to carefully line up a long bead of glue on parts and have to assemble.  

I am a plastic kit builder for 50 years now....and work in the biz today.

I have about 10 types of glue for my building. But if I had to narrow it down....

1. Pro Weld - a water like solvent.  Tamiya super thin solvent #2 pick.

2. Gorilla 5 minute epoxy - good stuff....easy to find.

3. Gorilla instant 'zap' CA type glue. again....good stuff easy to find.

My scratch built Intermodal car....used all 3 type glues....

Try this website http://www.thistothat.com/

What kind of plastic?  There's lots of general glues/adhesives available, but for doing it right, you really should be using one that's specific to your material(s).

Does gorilla epoxy foam like normal gorilla glue does?.  I hate that . . . .?

I used my Gorilla epoxy today to fix a new loco that got beat up in the mail. It's just a good grade of epxy IMHO. I used SIG brand for years but can't find any longer.

I have never used Gorilla 'wood' type glue so not sure of the comparison.

Does gorilla epoxy foam like normal gorilla glue does?.  I hate that . . . .? 

Original Gorilla Glue is a resin glue - the foaming is characteristic of that type of glue. Gorilla has expanded its brand to encompass epoxies, cyanoacrylates, and who knows what else - but it's only the resin glue that foams. Resin glues are good for certain applications in woodworking and little or nothing else. I personally never use them at all - when I build furniture I use yellow glue. 

What kind of glue is best used to attach the clear plastic window strips to the inside of passenger cars? On Lionel and GGD cars I've repainted, I've had to remove the windows first. The glue appears to remain sticky as the window is pulled off the car body sort of like a contact cement. Definitely not a CA, epoxy, or solvent type glue. Whatever it is it seems to work very well.

Ken

LocTite super glue is far better than Gorilla glue, in my opinion,  for styrene and styrene to wood projects.  I have used both and found the LocTite dries MUCH faster and forms a much stronger bond.

Rick

A little off topic but what would be the best repair adhesive as pictured. The plastic feels stiff as opposed to the flexible type used in RC vehicles. It is a Yat Ming diecast car.

Go to Lowes or Depot and get some Gorilla glue 5 minute epoxy. It's strong but offers some flex to take shocks w/o breaking again.