Rail Bender for gargraves track

After reading the horror stories some told of bending Gargraves I made a few jigs in plywood to bend it. I found it to be very easy to bend without any tools or jigs. I did keep a jig for O-72 curves. I use it only so the curve is smooth. When I am laying O-90 or even bigger I often bend it in the O-72 then use the lines for track center to make whatever radius at hand. I have never seen a commercial 'tool' to bend the track.....not like those made for code 332 rail in G scale....but those bend rail only....not the whole track.

There used to be a tool for this, it used various dies and was sold by a hobby shop out west. However, I believe they went out of business because no one has been able to get in touch with them in over a year.

 

Though I haven't bent any of my Gargraves yet, I plan to use a jig like AMCDave said.  Get it close and then follow the lines marked on your roadbed. 

 

OGR actually did an article on how to do this back in the late 80/early 90s and they did it this way.

As Dave said, use plywood to create the radii you'll need and use the radiused plywood to form your curves.  For example, use a nail and fishing line, string, etc. at the lengths you want and draw the line(s) on the plywood using the same centerpoint created by the nail.  Start with the largest radius first, then go down in radii if you need more.  Just bend the GG around the plywood curves you've created.

 

A nice aspect of GG is that it has a memory after being bent--it will want to straighten towards the ends.  The ends are no longer straight, but they are not at the radius of the jig.  Those ends create nice easements if you want them.

AMCDave, 86TA355SR, and Pingman,

 

Thanks for the replies.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Norm's Model Supply makes one. I bought one several month's ago but i haven't used it yet. I don't know if he is still in business.

Any flex track that we had to bend, we just laid it flat on the layout and bent it by hand as needed. If the track is new, it will bend easily. If you're trying to bend old track with dried out ties....good luck with that.

Woody;

 

For what it's worth I use the bend-screw-bend approach.  After laying out the path that I want to take, I start by screwing down the end of the track and then bending gently into the proper configuration.  I add screws every five to ten ties depending on how severe the curve is.  I don't rush it and focus on being gentle to preclude kinking the rails.  As you bend you will remove excess ties and when you reach the end of the piece being bent you can use a dremel cutting wheel to even up the rails.  Might sound scary but bending really isn't -- just takes a little forethought, patience, and a gentle touch.

 

Poppyl

 

That's it, I just checked the receipt!  

Just a thought here because I'm in that boat...I may give 'em a good soaking with WD40 and see what happens.  Probably a lot of broken ties!  And some bad words...

Woody,

 

Even using the jig method described above, you will inevitably form curves by bending the flex track on the layout and screwing it down as described above--especially if you are completing a curve by joining to pieces of flex track, and on the diverging rails of a switch.  Flex track is just that; it flexes even when bent on a jig--it is not sectional track with stringers keeping things perfect. 

 

I suggest you buy a countersink drill bit to countersink the holes for the screws.  GG recommends using #4 screws in a length appropriate to any cork, etc. used under the track.  Countersinking makes it somewhat easier to use a tool to spread the ballast if the tool rides along the tops of the cross ties, and, IMHO, makes for a neater appearance. 

Don't soak too much... what does wood do when it gets soaked??? SWELL and grip that rail tighter.

 

How old is your flex track?

 

How much are you needing to bend?

 

If it's real old, and you have a lot that needs bent, I would considering selling it and using the sectional curves. You can sell that track and still get a good price for it, and the sectional curves are much less hassle. But that's just my opinion  

I went online and choo choo stuff site is no longer available. Just curious what was the price of the rail bender from Norm's Model Supply.

Thanks for all the replies.

 

 

If anyone has a Norms bender and wants to sell it please contact me have not

been able to contact anyone at his business in New Mexico

 

tom1108

I helped my son bend G gauge track for a botanical project he was doing with a bender and it worked very well.  He slid the rails out of the ties, bent the rails to the radius he was looking for and we re-inserted the rails.  A lot of work, but good results.

 

Art

I've heard of guys using anything from the hot water heater to -- and I'm not kidding here -- their gut. But you'd have to be pretty big if you're looking to get a wide radius going.

The problem with trying to bend it free hand, in the air and not flat on a table, is that it can twist. If you twist it too bad, it gets a kink when you try to flatten it back out. Thats why I like to keep it flat on the layout while bending it.

I thought a lot of guys just used their bellies. LOL
Jim D.

Whether using a rail bender or plywood, is there a secret on how to handle the uneven ends?  I tried soldering but they still wanted to go straight especially where the ends were joined with track pins.  Perhaps if I turned the pins on their side they would have followed the bend.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.  Thanks.   John

I use a block of 2x4 and a hammer to 'adjust' the track joints. Connect the track sections and then lightly tap the outside of each rail and walk the rails into a smooth joint. Takes some practice....but works well.

Stagger the joints - connect as many straight sections of flex track you need to make the entire curve(you can use your solder method) and easements and slide the rails through the ties appropriately.

 

Be aware this this can take up a lot of table space to do, but can be minimized by starting the flexing in the middle of the curve, whether fastening the track down or using templates or both.

Norm from Norm's model supply passed away early this year.  He was a great guy with an mind for detail work.  A real joy to work with. 

 

Not the same Norm as Norm Pullen O scale trains in South Casco Maine.

 

I use Norm's model supply bender but not for GG.  A plywood template is the best thing for GG. 

John, assuming we're talking about joining two pieces of flex track mid-curve, I'd screw down the last tie in the track already partially installed when the end was at the desired radius, then trim that as close as I could to create a uniform end.  I'd then join the next piece using track pins and do as Dave does to close any gap between the two pieces of track.   I'd screw down the first tie of the new piece of connected track and continue the curve.  I'd check my curve by flipping over a piece of sectional track of the desired radius and putting it atop the flex track joint and curve up to that point and a bit past the joint.  Once satisfied, I'd continue to screw down the joined piece of track, checking the joint again for gaps, tapping the end to close any gap that may have been created and trimming its ends, then repeat.  If I didn't have a piece of sectional track for the specific curve, I'd use previously curved flex track or a wooden yardstick to avoid a kink at the joint between the two sections of flex track.

 

I've never seriously tried the staggered track joining that Rob described, and I'm not sure I understand how using two or more pieces of flex track assembled and then curved would work when trying to attach them to previously laid track.

Gargraves Flexible Track you tube

 

I made two jigs out of plywood using pre bent 072 and 054 track to form the jig. Worked great for me no hassle and easy.

Thanks guys for all the great suggestions that I'll use as I move to the second level with a lot of bending needed.

Sorry to hear Norm has passed away, a great guy to deal with. R.I.P. Norm.

Woody, i have about 165.00 in mine including shipping, you might find one on ebay.

Here's a large scale code 332/ 250 track bender and I use mine all the time. Rail benders are a waste of time. With a track bender you can bend right thru joints located in a curve. 

 

 

 Here it is in use