Rail King IR Remote Lock-On not working

#1 You CANNOT USE DC power source!!!!! It cannot control or vary the voltage of the DC source.

You should be using a Z500, Z750, or Z1000 AC power source.

Again, without even needing to see the label, the shape and size of that near flat wall wart power supply implies it is a switching mode (high frequency) modern style DC supply. Again, yes it is AC from the wall, but converts to DC on the output and thus is not compatible with the 50-1012

Following the manual for the 50-1012 https://mthtrains.com/sites/de...ction/30as10319i.pdf

Set Up and Operation of Remote Control
Setting Up your Remote Control Unit for the First Time:
1. Ensure the transformer is unplugged.
2. Insert batteries (2 “AA” batteries, not included) into the remote
handheld.
3. Each RealTrax® segment (excluding switches and uncoupling
sections) has at least one knock-out tab in the roadbed (on either
end of the segment) that can be removed to reveal an opening for the
lock-on. See figures 1a and 1b for how to remove the
tabs.
4. Making sure the lock-on is aligned with the opening, firmly slide the
lock-on into place until it is fully plugged into the track section (see
figures 1c and 1d).
5. Plug the Z-500 or Z-750 into the lock-on’s center port, marked
“Power.

Note, not trying to mix topics but trying to tie pieces of info together here in this discussion about a loco.

https://ogrforum.com/...6#177117009289123676

@Santa Bill K posted:

A hook up question on the IR remote, It has a connection for an MTH transformer. Does the power for the track come through the Real Trax lock on?

Answer: Yes, it must have power through it (in the input and out of the lockon terminals)to control power and vary the track voltage.

I think I could use alligator clips to the IR lock on connections and the other end to a standard Lionel lockon. Sure, that is one way to skin the cat.

My layout is all standard 3 rail Menard track with a few post war turnouts.  Sure- that is your alligator clip method

Could I fab up a  cable with the connector that goes into the IR remote and hook that to a Lionel 1033 output? Sure, but you would want a circuit breaker and the correct coaxial power input jack

Or is there something special about the wave form of the MTH that makes this system function correctly? No special waveform, but it's basically expecting at least 12-18V constant AC input. Also, probably should have a fuse or circuit breaker to limit the maximum short circuit current.

However, at some point, you then switched from what was discussed to a DC power adapter..........

Again, you asked about using a Lionel 1033 or ideally, really, just use a Z500 or Z750 brick as intended

Is the Fast Track wall wart DC? My meter is set on AC and is reading 18 volts.

I switched from a 1033 to a Fast Track set I got with a new Polar Express. The picture shows the Fast Track 18v AC transformer. I plan to use the small 36 layout around the Christmas tree.

@Santa Bill K posted:

Is the Fast Track wall wart DC? My meter is set on AC and is reading 18 volts.

Read the label- yes, it's DC.

Thank you guys for pointing out my error.

I didn't know the Polar Express was DC. It runs on my ZW powered layout.

I will get the right AC transformer and try it.

I missed the setting on my meter too.

@Santa Bill K posted:

Thank you guys for pointing out my error.

I didn't know the Polar Express was DC. It runs on my ZW powered layout. The engine and cars are AC or DC compatible, however, the DC lionchief power source may be a huge problem for other trains and cars not compatible with DC.

I will get the right AC transformer and try it.

And there lies the issue!!!

I get not knowing electronics to some extent, but all this did is just highlight something I say all the time- Lionel using DC power packs in Lionchief sets is setting some people up for potential failure (when they buy other trains and cars to expand their layout and collection).

There are MANY train products in the industry that REQUIRE and expect AC for proper operation. Yes, some modern equipment doesn't care about AC or DC, and there are instances of older stuff. But as a rule, it's strongly recommended to stick with AC for maximum compatibility.

Again, in many Lionel manuals for specialty cars, most items in the TMCC era, there are actually warnings in the manuals that say damage can occur if DC track power is used. Basically, anything that uses TRIACs as the controlling output device (mostly began around the 1990s timeframe with TMCC and Railsounds) needs the AC waveform to turn off. Without AC, a TRIAC becomes an SCR- and is stuck in the ON state forever until power it cut- often smoking and overheating whatever output it was controlling (example electrocoupler or other coil).

Thank you Vernon for educating me on Lionel practices. It really bit me. I will look closely from now on!

@Santa Bill K posted:

Thank you Vernon for educating me on Lionel practices. It really bit me. I will look closely from now on!

FWIW, I too learned the hard way. I too started with some DC Lionchief and even got the upgrade 72 Watt DC Lionchief power pack. I then bought a nice TMCC Crane and darn near started a fire because I fired an electrocoupler while it was sitting on a DC powered track. This was circa 2018- now I know better.

A huge chunk of the advice and answering questions in this forum is about my real life experiences, where I spent the money, had the damage, had to repair it, and I'm saying them to hopefully protect you and others from repeating my hard lessons learned.