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My dad's RailKing 2-8-2 Mikado (30-1164) just lost its 5v board so I plan to either install a PS23 upgrade kit (which I have), or get a functional 5v board out of one of my engines and use the upgrade kit for the donor engine.

I have performed numerous upgrades but this has to be one of the most demanding due to the available space in the engine (where the original board is located) as well as the tender (option site).

The PS32 board is wider and the plastic mount would have to be shaved if it were to fit in the engine shell. How to mount the heat sink is still an unknown, which is why I looked at the tender as a possible option.  The tender is also very limited in space and so I would have to create a bracket to place the board over the speaker, assuming there is overhead space with the tender shell.

The sharing of any experiences with this task would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Scott

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Ideally you'd want to put a PS32 board with 5V connectors where the old PS2 5V board was. Can't say if it would be best to move the PS32 board to the tender and rewire the locomotive. I've never had one of those locomotives in my hand. Hopefully one of the techs who posts here will have worked on one and can guide you in the correct direction.

hi for the engines that have the 5 volt board inside the engine , usually the ps 3/2 board won' t fit so all you have to do is gut all the wire harness's boards etc from the engine speaker battery everything . then mount your ps 3/2 board inside the tender drilling whole to mount board install wiring harness new 4 ohm speaker and mount tach board harness on flywheel motor connect wires to smoke unit motors headlight load flash code for your engine and download file from mth websight  . takes time but it is not hard just time consuming! make sure you do not  pinch any wires in train body and or frame or tender where board is mounted!

Alan   

@RJT posted:

I have the same locomotive and when I opened it up and saw that I cringed. I plan on upgrading to PS2 the kit has been ordered. I am thinking about relocating the entire board assembly into the tender I don’t think the RE wiring will be to difficult to do but I will see and learn.

Agreed-the tender is the only option, but it is so short I was thinking about how to hang the board over the speaker and deal with the heat sink & shell clearance.

Please post pictures of how you tackle this, as my fix will only last as long as the 5v board I installed  😕

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