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The other night I was running a new consist on the layout and noticed two different cars I had just put up on the layout were arching and sparking going through the frog of the divergent track on my Atlas"O" 7.5 degree turnouts. The two cars in question just happen to be Lionel. One car had the late "hidden tab" mechanism installed and the other car had the previous thumbtack system on the die-cast sprung trucks (# 12843).

A few months ago I had purchased a digital caliper from Harbor Freight for uses such as this. When I started checking the wheel-sets that had the tell-tale "welding marks" on the inside of the wheel flange. I found the offending wheel-sets were "tight" by at least 0.0090" . (CORRECTION here: should be 0.090")

I dug out some brand new 12843 wheel-sets I had purchased years ago and found they were similar to the one wheel-set that did not have any issues. They measured about 1.0435" on average back-to-back. I installed two new trucks and had that car fixed. Note: These wheel-sets have staked side-frames to the bolster.

My next car was the "tab" diecast sprung trucks; these trucks are actually screwed together at the truck bolster. This allows you to deftly un-screw them to the point of being loose at which time you can spread them apart enough to work the axle out of the teflon bearings in the side-frames. Once I had them out, it was just a matter of putting the axle set on my vice and gently knocking the axle down through the wheel. Once it was loose, it was just a matter of taking a socket that fit inside the outside face of the wheel and re-installing it to my preferred dimension of 1.0435". Once done and re-assembled, that car is now problem free as well.

After this history, this brings me to my question which is; have any of you figured out a way to re-gauge the wheel-sets on the "staked side-frame" (#12843) die-cast sprung truck? Everything I have tried in the past invariably results in a bent axle, and sore fingers with no apparent change in wheel gauge. There is no way to wiggle the axle out of these trucks that I've found to date. Cutting the staked metal off the top of the bolster means you have nothing to re-stake or a method to retain the side-frame to the bolster unless one could drill into the side-frame and tap for a machine screw from the top (?)...

Awaiting any ideas you Forumites may have....

 

 

 

Last edited by D&H 65
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D&H 65 posted:

Yes dave, another "senior moment".... It should be .09"

OK....that's better. The few wheel sets I have tried to re-gauge have been done with a bench vice. (a press would be better) I take a small block of wood with a 1/8" hole drilled for the axle.  On the other end I use a 1/4" drive socket......whatever fits the wheel face best....like a 3/8" or so.....each wheel brand is different.  Doing it this way still runs the risk of bent axle but go very slow and make sure that socket is centered.....most important.....go slow.....very slow. 

I want to respond to this question. Tomorrow, I will shoot a picture of the tool I use to spread wheels on trucks. My problem is that most of my MTH rolling stock will derail when passing through my switch tracks. All my track and switches are Atlas. The MTH wheel sets are about 0.030 more narrow than Lionel and Atlas trucks, all of which negotiate my switches without derailing. Once I use my tool to spread the wheels on the MTH rolling stock, then they will run through my switch tracks without derailing. The trick is to do this without bending the axle or leaving a wheel in a wobbling condition.

IMG_2504

I have had the same problem with Weaver wheel sets gauged too narrow.  They spark on Gargraves turnouts and they pinch the guard rails on my Atlas #5 turnouts. Fortunately, you can easily pop the wheelsets out.  I use this modified wheel puller to increase the wheel gauge (it came with a box of tools I bought at a show).  A friend machined out a cone shaped hole in the pin for the needlepoint axle.  You can do the same with a cheap battery terminal puller from Harbor Freight.

The modern hidden tab trucks from Lionel are riveted together and it is not possible to remove the wheelsets without damaging the frame.  You could cut or drill the rivets, but once you re-install the wheelsets, I don't see any way the put new rivets in.  There's no room to work.  I'm baffled about how they put these things together.

It may take a custom tool to spread the wheels in place in the truck.  Maybe cutting slots for the axles on the ends of the jaws of a channel lock wrench and using it like an inside caliper. 

 

If these cars are a recent purchase, contact Lionel about a replacement truck.  I had 3 out of 6 couplers fail in my 3-pack of Vision line sound reefers.  They sent me 3 new trucks.

Bob

 

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Thanks for the inputs so far guys; here's my observations on some replies...

PRRJIM: That is the question I'm asking as well - to increase the spacing, you really need to remove the axle to decrease the likelihood of bending the axle. Once the axle can be removed, you can drive the axle end through one wheel and then re-install the wheel to the desired dimension.

RRDOC: The wheel puller is certainly a good option, but you still need to get the axle removed to allow its usage. I've also tried judiciously widening with some channel lock pliers, but always have found the axle is bent afterwards.

Here's a picture of the tool I made for this purpose.

The legs are very stiff steel about five inches long. I ground the groove in the ends so they would slip over the axle on an O gauge truck. The two shorter bolts, with nut and jamb nut, are to adjust the width of the legs and to adjust them to parallel when inserted in a truck.

Turning the long bolt will spread the legs to move the wheels. In the case of MTH trucks, the wheels are very tight. So, be careful when tightening the long spreader bolt as the wheels will pop (jump) when their grip on the axle fails. Trucks from other manufacturers slip easier, but in most cases, there isn't a problem with gauge that causes derails on the other manufacturer's rolling stock. At least, not on Atlas tracks on my layout.

Try making something like this and give it a try.

Vic

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You can also make a cheap and simple spreading tool from a copper tubing compression-union. Here are the photos I posted in January under the title "A simple spreader for 2-rail wheels."

There's no reason it won't work on any axle that does not have an attached gear (in different scales, too, by using a larger or smaller union).

I cut the slots using a fiber-reinforced abrasive disc in a high-speed rotary tool.

I added the spacer (washer) because the device was too long to fit between the wheels with both end caps in place, but was a little short with only one (i.e. only a few threads engaged between cap and body of the union).

With the slot on the cap and aligned with the slot on the central body of the union, the device can be slipped over the axle.

Turn the threaded end with a small open-end wrench to push wheels apart, while holding body of union with another wrench.

UnionSlotsWasherDevice on axleWrenches

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AMCDave posted:
D&H 65 posted:

Yes dave, another "senior moment".... It should be .09"

OK....that's better. The few wheel sets I have tried to re-gauge have been done with a bench vice. (a press would be better) I take a small block of wood with a 1/8" hole drilled for the axle.  On the other end I use a 1/4" drive socket......whatever fits the wheel face best....like a 3/8" or so.....each wheel brand is different.  Doing it this way still runs the risk of bent axle but go very slow and make sure that socket is centered.....most important.....go slow.....very slow. 

Guy's, guy's spelling counts "vice" is what you commit at a massage parlor, a vise is what that gets you into.

Bogie

OldBogie posted:
AMCDave posted:
D&H 65 posted:

Yes dave, another "senior moment".... It should be .09"

OK....that's better. The few wheel sets I have tried to re-gauge have been done with a bench vice. (a press would be better) I take a small block of wood with a 1/8" hole drilled for the axle.  On the other end I use a 1/4" drive socket......whatever fits the wheel face best....like a 3/8" or so.....each wheel brand is different.  Doing it this way still runs the risk of bent axle but go very slow and make sure that socket is centered.....most important.....go slow.....very slow. 

Guy's, guy's spelling counts "vice" is what you commit at a massage parlor, a vise is what that gets you into.

Bogie

It is the message that "counts" - we can deal with the "spelling" later - we all know what he meant when he was sharing a nice idea.

Question OldBogie:  How would you know what goes on in a massage parlor.  Are there some of your adventures you are not telling us about? 

Speaking of errors in spelling and grammar: "guys" (plural of "guy") does not require an apostrophe (for example -- "Guy's, guy's spelling counts ..." in the post by BOGIE). There's a growing tendency, now almost a new normal, to use an apostrophe to form the plural. But that is incorrect usage, because an apostrophe indicates either possession, or the intentional omission of letters.  

 

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