I have been waiting to here if there was any sign the MTH Reading T1s from the last catalog? Their web site has a January 2021 ship date.
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I thought I saw may as their ship date
I'm pretty sure it's in June unless the date has changed.
Thank you guys for the help. I thought I may have missed it.
I recieved the Chessie T1 from Mr Muffins about a week ago. Did you ever get yours? What road name? Would love to hear about it and see pics\videos.
Bill
Funny you should ask...while straightening up my stash of stuff as I sell off excess baggage this weekend I found a MTH NOS Reading cab #2124 T-1 20-3130-2 acquired many years ago. Totally forgot about it. It was like found gold. My dad took me on many Reading Rambles.
I had forgotten how massive and beautiful it is. Just wish my father could be here to enjoy it with me...he never saw this layout.
Im still waiting to see if any came in...
@Allan Loczy posted:Im still waiting to see if any came in...
maybe this would help, if I understand the question?
"Chessie Steam Special": #2101, Cars, Consist, Photos (american-rails.com)
and
General Search | MTH ELECTRIC TRAINS (mthtrains.com)
or do you just mean the "reading" version?
@tom21pa posted:
Nice! Play with the whistle steam yet? Is there a separate reservoir on these?
@William Moore posted:Nice! Play with the whistle steam yet? Is there a separate reservoir on these?
Yes I played with the whistle steam, the instructions do not State anything about a separate reservoir. Actually the instructions are very vague.
@William Moore posted:Nice! Play with the whistle steam yet? Is there a separate reservoir on these?
all the MTH with steaming whistles that I've seen, are a complete separate smoke unit.
Here's the big boy unit in action
The engine comes with a generic instruction manual, it says to go to the MTH website and find your product and then download the instruction manual for your specific locomotive, but it's not even on there yet
The big boys are what made me question it. I'm waiting on the 50-1039's to hit before I can access the quilling\steam function. Just wanna get my ducks in a row so I don't burn anything up when the time comes. I appreciate all the sharing and feedback. Keep these t1 pics coming...
I got mine finally, I wanted the blue version however it go lost in the cipher vastness of the electronic world, most likely my fault. I now have the black 2102 version. I can live with that. Anyone want to trade my black version for your blue version?
I got three, 2101, 2102 (Black), and RBMN Blue. This is my favorite loco. they have all come in.
After some investigation, the fill for the whistle steam Is actually through the top of the whistle. Very hard to fill. Definitely need a needle point dispenser. Nothing to pull or remove.
I got the 2100. I figured out how to fill the whistle steam unit by looking back at the manual for the whistle steam equipped N&W J that came out over a year ago. Yes, you do have to refill it through the whistle. Luckily I have a few small funnels that came with a Legacy Mikado that work.
Here is a video of mine -
Also a photo of my model of 2100 with a real stay bolt from the real 2100 currently under restoration by American Steam Railroad at the Midwest Railway Preservation Societies Baltimore & Ohio roundhouse in Cleveland, OH.
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@tom21pa posted:After some investigation, the fill for the whistle steam Is actually through the top of the whistle. Very hard to fill. Definitely need a needle point dispenser. Nothing to pull or remove.
I really appreciate the info. I emailed MTH about a week ago but have not heard back yet. Luckily my needle dispenser already has the scent I plan on using.
@TrainWizard5972 posted:I got the 2100. I figured out how to fill the whistle steam unit by looking back at the manual for the whistle steam equipped N&W J that came out over a year ago. Yes, you do have to refill it through the whistle. Luckily I have a few small funnels that came with a Legacy Mikado that work.
Here is a video of mine -
Also a photo of my model of 2100 with a real stay bolt from the real 2100 currently under restoration by American Steam Railroad at the Midwest Railway Preservation Societies Baltimore & Ohio roundhouse in Cleveland, OH.
Thanks to you as well. (Your message came through while I was sidetracked-pun intended.)
@tom21pa posted:After some investigation, the fill for the whistle steam Is actually through the top of the whistle. Very hard to fill. Definitely need a needle point dispenser. Nothing to pull or remove.
I only put fluid in the smokestack and the whistle steam effect worked after about 5 min or so. I did not put fluid in the whistle.
@tom21pa posted:
You may be right, you post is how my other MTH whistle steam equipped engines work. All I can say is that I've primed two of the new MTH T-1's by only placing fluid in the smokestack, and I have smoke coming out the whistle on both.
Is it possible it came with smoke fluid from the factory?
I can't imagine Mr. Muffin and/or Nassau Hobbies both put smoke fluid in the whistle before shipping.
I think they test them at factory. So its just whatever is left in there. If u look, the whistle is hollow. And there is no available detailed instructions yet.
@John Pignatelli JR.posted:I got mine finally, I wanted the blue version however it go lost in the cipher vastness of the electronic world, most likely my fault. I now have the black 2102 version. I can live with that. Anyone want to trade my black version for your blue version?
I bought the blue version (Blue Mountain & Reading) by accident. I totally screwed up. I looked at the catalog and the image I saw was black so I ordered that one. I never noticed that MTH put (blue) next to the description even though the image was black. I wish they would have put a blue image there. The thought never even occurred to me that MTH would paint this locomotive in the blue RBMN paint scheme. To my knowledge it never wore that paint scheme in real life.
I can’t exchange it because there are none left and I can’t sell it because I can’t buy the one I want. What are the odds that there is a “-2” version for sale anywhere? Nope. None left. Besides what 2 rail guy is going to want to buy the fantasy paint scheme that I got? It’s a nice color and MTH got the color correct as it is exactly the same as the 425 but I do not like fantasy paint schemes. I can’t blame MTH nor MrMuffin’sTrains. It’s my dumb mistake. I am so disgusted with myself that I haven’t even opened the box yet. I wanted the black version of the Blue Mountain & Reading because I saw the T1 run in person in that paint scheme way back in ‘80s. I have come to the conclusion my only option is to someday get it totally repainted. I would love to trade with you but I have the scale wheels version. Unless we could possibly trade shells?
The suspense is killing me. Did you guys trade shells or what? Lol
@William Moore posted:
Very nice Billy! Wanna see this awesome loco. Shoot me an email. You can't text. phone is at the bottom of West Branch. Griff
@William Moore posted:The suspense is killing me. Did you guys trade shells or what? Lol
Sorry for taking s long to respond. After a while I unsubscribed from this thread. I really wanted to exchange shells but I never heard anything from John Pignatelli. Either he was not interested in a swap or he never saw this thread. Want to know where my locomotive is? It is in with a heap of cardboard boxes that are due to get recycled. No, I am not going to throw it away but I was just so disgusted with what happened that I put the locomotive there among those other boxes and I never even opened up the outer shipping box. The other day I said to myself that maybe I should look at it, maybe MTH made a mistake and I got the black version but I never did. Just lost interest in it.
How does everyone rate the performance on these engines? I have one on the prior versions and am debating picking up one of these. Is it worth the plunge?
I have always been a sucker for the Chessie scheme and yes they run great.
What may become a problem in the future is the Pittman motor, it may be hard to replace if you have to.
. . .the odds that there is a “-2” version for sale anywhere? Nope. None left. Besides what 2 rail guy is going to want to buy the fantasy paint scheme that I got?
This was from Phil a while back. I want to note that all serious 2-railers will repaint at the drop of a hat. Steam is truly easy, because the only complicated part is decals.
Only reason I looked at all was that I have a passing interest in Reading steam. I typically do not do die cast, but if one fell into my arms in blue or red/ orange or whatever,it would be bead blasted and in Scalecoat gloss black in a heartbeat.
Then I would have Reading decals made.
Well Bob, that looks like the route I am going to have to take with this locomotive. I would have loved to switched shells with Mr.Pignatelli and I was willing to do all the labor for free even if it meant that all the scale wheels on the locomotive would have had to be switched from one locomotive to the other. I still haven't taken mine out of the box. Maybe I got lucky and MTH gave me a black one instead? I guess I had better open it up. I don't have a bead blaster but it is on my list of tools to get. What type of media do you recommend that will be safe so it doesn't damage the details on the locomotive? My other option is if I don't think I can paint it safely then I will have to pay someone to repaint it. I am glad you agree that no 2 rail enthusiast would want a blue locomotive where the prototype isn't blue. MTH should not have even offered the blue version in 2 rail but I digress.
Trains have taken a back seat for me because I took my car about 90% apart and I have been spending all my free time painting stuff, detailing stuff and putting it back together. I got the engine installed and I am getting close to that first start. I hope to get back to the trains over the winter.
I do not mind blue. In fact I have a blue MoPac Berk and my Baldwin 60000 is purple!
What I meant was - most 2-railers will repaint in a heartbeat. For 3-railers it diminishes value, but for a 2-railer it adds value.
I use glass beads at 35 psi. Borrow or rent a cabinet - they are usually huge, dirty, expensive, and cantankerous.
@Hudson J1e posted:Well Bob, that looks like the route I am going to have to take with this locomotive. I would have loved to switched shells with Mr.Pignatelli and I was willing to do all the labor for free even if it meant that all the scale wheels on the locomotive would have had to be switched from one locomotive to the other. I still haven't taken mine out of the box. Maybe I got lucky and MTH gave me a black one instead? I guess I had better open it up. I don't have a bead blaster but it is on my list of tools to get. What type of media do you recommend that will be safe so it doesn't damage the details on the locomotive? My other option is if I don't think I can paint it safely then I will have to pay someone to repaint it. I am glad you agree that no 2 rail enthusiast would want a blue locomotive where the prototype isn't blue. MTH should not have even offered the blue version in 2 rail but I digress.
Trains have taken a back seat for me because I took my car about 90% apart and I have been spending all my free time painting stuff, detailing stuff and putting it back together. I got the engine installed and I am getting close to that first start. I hope to get back to the trains over the winter.
Hello Phil, I sent you an email about the T1. I have been busy moving for the last few weeks back to PA.
@John Pignatelli JR. posted:Hello Phil, I sent you an email about the T1. I have been busy moving for the last few weeks back to PA.
No problem John. I responded to your email.
Can anyone post pics from the MTH 20-3789-1 blue version of the Reading and Blue Mountain T1?
@Peter Frenzel 010119 posted:Can anyone post pics from the MTH 20-3789-1 blue version of the Reading and Blue Mountain T1?
I haven't opened mine yet, but I'll try to get a video
I think this is the exact one I got from mr muffin