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I've had terrible luck with RealTrax turnouts. So bad, that I wish I hadn't overbought RealTrax and locked myself in, financially.

I won't go through the litany, I will just stick to my current Christmas layout issue. I run 2 Wyes, to create a siding. They are powered by track power on DCS, this year. I use 1 throw. They are about 8 feet apart and I use telephone wire to send the throw signal to the far Wye. Both Wyes and the surrounding 1 foot (ish) on either side are supported by paneling, over a very tightly woven carpet. The near Wye has burned out somehow (it will only throw in one direction). I believe it is in the track, because the solenoid and throw work on another turnout.

 

To the point:

1) Reading Barry's Companion, I will switch to a separate transformer, for switch power.

2) I don't want to be a switch tweaker. I want to play with my toys at Christmas time.

If I buy another Wye, secure both Wyes paneling , so that it supports the Wye, the switch and 10 - 15" track on either side of the switch, and buy an AIU, to throw the switches, what are my chances that I will get hassle free function? Each Christmas, I post my turnout woes and some say all are great, some say they have to tweak many switches, some have worse luck, than I do.

If I redesign the layout to give me another loop and skip the siding, I will re-re design it to allow a turnoff, to "park" an extra loco.

So, I am looking for the best way to enjoy turnouts on a Christmas carpet layout.

Original Post

I too had trouble when powering those switches with telephone wire.

Adding a second wire to the power and ground connections fixed it - I was losing too much voltage in the length of wire.

BUT, mine were on 14VAC accessory power, not full DCS track power.

 

For the one way only switch, I have invariable found one of two things;

1) A bad connection on the control wire (most of the time). These wires must carry the entire switching current. A bad connection will make them fail in one direction (or both). The Direction Marker light may dim giving an indication it's trying to move. 

2) A pulled out magnet in the quick disconnect. This will throw off the length of the mechanism and make it not throw properly. Since the switch does not fully seat the other way (throwing the internal limit switch), it won't come back. I fix this by pulling the magnet and putting a drop of gel superglue in the socket, then inserting the magnet. Be sure to not flip the magnet over, it will not connect at all if in backwards (It's actually repelling the like face of the magnet in the Switch engine).

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