Recommended Simple "Whole Layout" Kill Switch

Lee,

 

Yes, that definitely works just fine!

 

I have been using a similar Home Depot version for a couple of years. I have six remote outlets (two controllers) to control the main power and the accessory power around the layout. I carry (in my shirt or pants pocket) the remote that controls the 'Main' power outlet, with the corresponding button highlighted in red.

 

If while I am running the trains something goes wrong, I press that button and all track power, TIU's and Legacy shutdown. I have had to use it three times.

 

This set:

Home Accents Holiday Indoor Wireless Remote Control Kit

Model # RC-015*3 ($9.98 for the set as of a few minutes ago, on their website)

 

 

Alex

So Lee, how about a link to where you got this little unit from?

Looks like it's this one.

If you have a big-ish layout, I suppose Yet One More Remote makes sense, but if

you are like me with a 18x12x10xsomething trapezoidal medium-sized

structure, you may find my layout kill switch that is simply the plug on the bit-above-waist-high power strip that feeds EVERYTHING on the layout to be sufficient, even preferred. Not as quick as a remote? True, if you can find the remote...and we all know

how that noble plan can turn out. The power strip is centrally located and never moves

around.

 

I designed it this way - you can pull the plug or hit the power strip switch, and the layout is physically disconnected from the municipal power grid. 

 

This has an advantage over a typical kill switch, also: when I leave the train building

for the day, or when I hear a thunderstorm heading my way, I shut down and unplug the 

layout. Unless it hits the building, no lightning can find my TMCC boards, motors, and the

rest.

Kill switch great idea.

 

I run everything TMCC/DCS through the DCS TIU so the kill button on the remote for DCS works great, have used it a few times. Normally when running trains even TMCC the DCS handheld is close by.

 

Also have the power supplies and all DCS and TMCC controls on one board with a power bar at the top switch is lit easy to see centrally located in the layout room so easy to access and have everything for the layout running into one switched plug so can also throw the switch and kill all the power.

 

I think if you have a really large layout the remotes described above are a good idea.

 

If you have your DCS handheld batteries die in the middle of a session then the red off button does not work.

@ GRJ,  avail at  lowes, home depot, amazon. etc.. $15.00 . I use a few of them. one for the trains, yes, its a perfect kill switch, especially if you have small kids. use one for the christmas tree, one for a lighted wall picture, one for wife's deep closet that is impractical for a regular switch.  Just be sure when buying that they are on different channels   a c e f h   etc. they are usually marked.

I use the DCS remote to kill power but my trains, etc. are all wired so that 1 electrical switch kills all the power to the trains, transformer accessories, etc.

These little outlet remotes are great.  I have some with the remotes and some that have a wall switch you can mount anywhere.

 

I'll be using them to turn power on and off to accessories around the layout rather than running long extension cords around the room under the layout to a single point.

 

Here is what I use for the trains as a kill switch.  On the second shelf to the right is a surge protector for computer equipment.  You can plug in five different power sources and turn them all off at once with the switch on the far right.  (This is an early construction view of my control area, it's been modified since and probably will be modified again)

 

 

When I was building my train room I wired dedicated circuits, one circuit of receptacles for track power, one circuit for accessories and a third that was constantly hot.  The receptacles and wall plates are color coded.  The circuits for track power and accessory power are switched.  I can kill all power to the layout by flipping the switches.  Each circuit has its own breaker and I installed a surge trap in the panel box.  This layout does not allow kill power remotely.   

I'm going right out to Home Depot now to get me one of these. Very cool idea. I like the idea of a neck lanyard. When I have friends operating my DCS remote I get very nervous and tend to hang out around my transformers. This will solve that problem.

 

Roger

I think I'll just wire a few of these in at various spots on my layout.

I have just 4 regular electrical wall switches strategically located around my layout and it has worked fine for me.  Kills all the power to the layout.

 

Art

On my last layout I just used a wall switch on the control board. Worked fine. Don

Yeah, I have one of those too, right at the control board, but if I'm across the room or in the workshop  . . . 

I have one lighted light switch on the wall that is the main kill switch.

Since my operaton/control is from a fixed position I  still prefer my hard wired kill switch.

Lee
I was just getting ready to install some kill switches (hard wired). What is the amp rating on this setup I love the idea

Ok......just finished installing it and it's GREAT!  I've got a neck lanyard for it and one push of the button and everything powers up. Wonderful.

 

-Roger

We have four red E-stop buttons just in case something goes completely nuts on the layout. There are only two green start buttons. In the time we've had them im place (over 15 years) we've only had to intentionally hit the E-stop twice, though we've had a couple of kids hit them a few times. Every layout should have at least one button to kill the entire layout.

Using TPC's, (Track Power Controllers) most of the motion part of the layout stops with the Halt button on a Cab1.
One switch by the door controls the receptacle that feeds a plug-strip and all the layout.
Receptacle lower left.
Wall receptacle, Plug-strip and Wall wart (transformer), Lionel command base.

Plug strip, lower left, white cord to the switched wall receptacle.
Plug-strip left to right
(1.) Accessory transformer, upper left
(2.) PH 135 transformer, track power
(3.) PH 135 transformer, track power
(4.) Wall wart (transformer) SC-2 switch controller.

The (2) TPC's pictured, (Silver boxes) will shut-down via the Cab1 Halt button. The DCS is connected in passive mode. Once the TPC have no power, the DCS is also off.

Art,

Are they set up as a 5 way switch?

Good morning Lee

 

I also bought a remote this winter, best kill switch there is.

No matter where I am, off in less than a second.

 

Clem

I have been using the remote on-off switch for years now.  I have it attached to a neck lanyard and hang it on a hook on the inside of the train room door when not in use.  When I am running the trains I hang the lanyard around my neck where I can get to it very quickly if and when (rarely) needed.

 

Lee,

   I am using the Etekcity ZAP 5LX Remote outlet Switches, you get 2 remote controls and 5 programmable switches, I bought 2 sets and programmed them to #1 plugged a long multi plug bar into them and control my entire DCS layout with them.  Simply place the 4 remote controls thru out the layout for immidate access, one push of a button, shuts the entire layout down.  Works like a charm.  A while back I started a thread on this exact subject and posted a picture of the small Stanley Remotes I was using at the time, Barry did some searching and came up with the Etekcity programmables with the 2 remotes.  You can probably still reference the thread to see the pictures we posted.

PCRR/Dave

This one suits my power needs. 

 

Nichole,

   I always figured you were dangerous, just how dangerous I had definitely underestimated, Nuclear powered O gauge Trains, with their own emergency switch.

I do believe this is what as known as over powering one's train layouts.

PCRR/Dave

 

Yep These life alert buttons have saved me many fried electronics and heart failures.

On a large layout when you have a short you just cannot dive quick enough to kill the power. The TVS and Lionel quick acting circuit breakers are great, but you also need time to have the power off to fix that train wreck!!