I have done this method on plastic fenders on a ATVs, bug shields, lexan and such with perfect results no scratches at all eh
Lexon and Bakelite is totally different materials! You WILL end up with a dull scratched finish if you use any abrasive polish or material on the case.
Dear C.W. Burfle
On a KW you have to disconnect the resistor wire. I do not remember what I did on the ZW.
To replace th diodes in a post war ZW do I have to un-solder anything or what?
Also what about the KW? I plan to do both transformers as soon as the diodes come in, as I have them on order from All Electronics.
I am guessing but will the new diodes fit inside the ZW shell?
Lee Fritz
The Lionel cases of that era were phenolic or phenol formaldehyde. I have worked in the phenolic industry for years. The resin is amber in color and depend on the fillers (various) to color it. The main colorant is carbon black but there are other fillers in the mix like minerals and wood flour and Carnauba wax as a processing aid. The minerals could even include varying amounts of asbestos.
The high gloss finish depends on the resins and colorant to coat over the top of the various fillers. Any sort of abrasive like sandpaper or even rubbing compounds, will remove the "skin" if you will, and tend to make things worse. I have had good luck restoring the finish with a good paste wax and in some cases black shoe polish.
Trust this helps... Tom
To replace th diodes in a post war ZW do I have to un-solder anything or what?
Also what about the KW? I plan to do both transformers as soon as the diodes come in, as I have them on order from All Electronics.
I am guessing but will the new diodes fit inside the ZW shell?
Lee Fritz
Hey Lee, here is the scope. Yes, in both the ZW and KW you will have to unsolder wires and resolder. In both cases you will have a "speed nut" holding the rectifier disc in place and the " speed nut" will have a wire soldered to it. You can snap the "speed nut"off with a small screw driver. Then unsolder the wire connected to the "speed nut" and discard the nut, the rectifier disc and the fiber washers and pin holding the disc in place and put the diode in the hole where the washers were and secure it with a washer and nut. For the larger diodes that I use to fit, on the ZW's the "arm" of the diode with the hole at the end of the arm should extend out and on the KW it should extend into the transformer. The wire you removed from the "speed nut" should then be soldered to the hole in the "arm" of the diode. On the KW you may need to slightly twist the mounting bracket to keep the arm" of the diode from hitting the roller arm. Someone earlier said something about disconnecting the resistance wire soldered to the bracket. Don't do it.
This may sound complicated but once you have the diode in your hand and the internal parts of the transformer exposed, it should make sense.
I have had a very long day and am exhausted but in the AM I will take a couple of pictures to show what I am describing and send them to you.
Don't forget to purchase a green light for your porch light and keep it burning in honor of all our veterans throughout the history of our great nation.
God Bless America and all the veterans and their families who have kept our nation free.
Jim
quote:Someone earlier said something about disconnecting the resistance wire soldered to the bracket. Don't do it.
The resistance wire certainly has to remain when a standard rectifier diode is used.
The discussion about disconnecting the resistance wire is for Zener diodes only. You are saying not to disconnect the resister when using a Zener diode?
quote:Someone earlier said something about disconnecting the resistance wire soldered to the bracket. Don't do it.
The resistance wire certainly has to remain when a standard rectifier diode is used.
The discussion about disconnecting the resistance wire is for Zener diodes only. You are saying not to disconnect the resister when using a Zener diode?
Sorry, I was referring to the standard diode I use, which is the same one that Lee will be using. I don't use Zenier diodes, they are expensive and as far as I am concerned overkill. All you are doing is creating a DC voltage to operate the whistle relay and a standard diode will do it very well and last longer than most of us will be around. I have no opinion on whether to or not to disconnect the resistant wire when using a Zenier diode.
Jim
To replace th diodes in a post war ZW do I have to un-solder anything or what?
Also what about the KW? I plan to do both transformers as soon as the diodes come in, as I have them on order from All Electronics.
I am guessing but will the new diodes fit inside the ZW shell?
Lee Fritz
Hey Lee, here is the scope. Yes, in both the ZW and KW you will have to unsolder wires and resolder. In both cases you will have a "speed nut" holding the rectifier disc in place and the " speed nut" will have a wire soldered to it. You can snap the "speed nut"off with a small screw driver. Then unsolder the wire connected to the "speed nut" and discard the nut, the rectifier disc and the fiber washers and pin holding the disc in place and put the diode in the hole where the washers were and secure it with a washer and nut. For the larger diodes that I use to fit, on the ZW's the "arm" of the diode with the hole at the end of the arm should extend out and on the KW it should extend into the transformer. The wire you removed from the "speed nut" should then be soldered to the hole in the "arm" of the diode. On the KW you may need to slightly twist the mounting bracket to keep the arm" of the diode from hitting the roller arm. Someone earlier said something about disconnecting the resistance wire soldered to the bracket. Don't do it.
This may sound complicated but once you have the diode in your hand and the internal parts of the transformer exposed, it should make sense.
I have had a very long day and am exhausted but in the AM I will take a couple of pictures to show what I am describing and send them to you.
Don't forget to purchase a green light for your porch light and keep it burning in honor of all our veterans throughout the history of our great nation.
God Bless America and all the veterans and their families who have kept our nation free.
Jim
Thanks Jim! I will see how it goes in a few days when the diodes arrive and I have time.
Lee Fritz
The resistor wire is required with a rectifier diode. With a Zener diode
the resistor does not make any difference.
With the rectifier diode and resistor, the amount of DC off set depends
on the load current from the transformer. With a small load there may not
be enough DC offset to operate electronic horns and the engine
will speed up from the AC boost voltage added to compensate for the voltage drop
in the resistor.
A Zenor may costs more but it provides a DC offset that will operate electronic
horns independent of load and engines will not speed up when the horn
is operated.
O GaugeJim,
I've read this treatise on the repair of ZW's, but in all honesty it would really help me (and potentially several others) if you were to post some photo's of the process and parts your using.
Also was there any resolution to how to properly cleanup the ZW case to bring back its luster?
Thanks!
Folks, I want to try using a modern diode (rectifier) in place of the original rectifier disk in a transformer I am rehabbing right now.
I've spent some time searching the board for information on a part number, but have come up empty.
Right now I am working on a ZW.
What are people using as replacements for the rectifier disk these days?
Thank you for the link to the EBay lot.
I notice the seller has both 16 amp and 40 amp kits.
I was looking for a spec or an electronics part number.
The all Electronics links in the body of this thread don't seem to be valid any longer because I don't see any high amperage diodes in stud mount cases on their site.
Gentlemen,
I know Jim wants to cut back on his little business operations he is not 25 years old any more, however if you talk real nice to him I am pretty sure he will still restore your ZW and KW Transformers, it may however take a little longer than in the past. He still does the very best work around, I have several of his ZW & KW restorations. They run better than when they were brand new.
PCRR/Dave
4 of those Lionel Transformers on the lower power station in the picture below the 3rd ZW runs the Christmas layout in the formal living room, all run great.
Here you go. This is from Kent's (tranz4mer) site regarding ZW upgrades.
Thank you.
I see Kent is recommending that the diodes be purchased on EBay.
(Thanks again to TRAIN NUT for the EBay link. )
Here is a quote from Kent's write-up:
The best replacement is a stud mounted, anode to case rectifier diode. Model 1N1190AR, or 1N1186AR available online. The 1N1190AR is a 600V 40 Amp diode with a threaded 1/4”-28 stud mount.
your post is very helpful, but i still
need help. my zw of 65+ years has an unattached wire and i get zero terminal output from the backside. at the back bottom of the coil there are three wires, two covered in black and gold braid. the uncovered wire on left is not attached. it looks like it goes left to the circuit breaker. to what does it attach? thanks.
WMG, Can you send me a picture? I just happen to have a ZW on my workbench and I’m reconditioning and if I could get even a sketchy picture I could probably identify the wire and tell you where and how to reconnect it. Jim
the two of you look great! i have not been this excited since around 1954 when my parents got me the longest lackawana engine i had ever seen.
my thumb is on the section that faces the back where the eight terminals are located. my index finger is on a wire that heads out to the left, if this wire in a lamp it would be a ground wire in its size and lack of covering except either paint or plastic.
i am a 50 plus year member of the nyack volunteer fire department, located next to the tappan zee bridge, now cuomo, across the hudson river, and am a principal driver of a two year old kme. we still have and drive, not to alarms, a 1949 ahrens fox. a beautiful engine which will still pump 1000 gpm.
thank you for taking the time about my problem. the virus has prevented me from going to a repair shop in north new jersey.
Anyone know the ratings/part number for the correct Zener Diodes to use so that the correct DC is obtained?
Thanks!
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