relays

There were solid state replacements for the whistle relay at one time. Never tried one.

A few observations:

A relay, by definition is "electrical."

The specialized relay in a tender reacts to Direct Current, and ignores Alternating Current.

Not trying to put words in your mouth, but perhaps you meant "Is there an electronic relay..."  meaning that you are seeking an electronic (soild-state) version of the relay to do the same function.

There are solutions, and we can go over them next,

(here's one) http://www.electricrr.com/Hobby/PWR-Ctlr/PWR1.htm

but my first question is "why" do you want to change the circuit?

Did you try a Google search for previous postings on this Forum and elsewhere, on this very same subject?  There are many of them under "solid state whistle relay".

Lionel uses a solid state DC sensor / whistle relay on their current production air whistle tenders.  The part number is 6108633020 "PCB / DC OFFSET / AIR WHISTLE".

You would also need a solid state relay, such as THIS ONE to switch the track voltage(and current - too much for just the DC Offset detector circuit) to the AC whistle motor in your prewar tender.

Thanks to all of you

 Mr. Bloom the reason I want to change the original "circut" is the Dxxx thing

does not work most of the time also I sometimes regret my lack of

electrical terminology

any way thanks to all you

JOHN G

If the whistle relay is not working consistently,  it is just as likely that there is a problem with the transformer or whistle control.

With normal cleaning(track and wheels included) & maintenance, the whistle relays are quite reliable.

Rob:

I have one that works 99% of the time & the rest (5 of them) are a headache

so I don't think I have any track or transformer problems

last I don't think even brand new they worked 100% of the time as they are

You have to follow all of the steps to determine what the problem is... in the wheels/chassis, wiring, contacts, shaded pole coil, and then on to the whistle motor for complete maintenance.  Old age does not simply cause a failure.

Old age =posible wearout --serious I've been over all of the possibilities

I think ER has the answer if not I'll keep looking

Again thanks

JOHN G

For testing purposes, you can eliminate the transformer, wiring, track, wheels, and rollers by applying DC to the coil directly with two test leads.  Remember, when testing, that the relay will operate best when oriented right side up.  You can use a volt meter or a test lamp, in place of the whistle motor, for less noise in the room during the tests.

You can eliminate all of the above and eliminate the relay itself, to test if the whistle motor operates reliably, by applying AC to its input wires.

You might have a bad relay, I agree, but you also might just have 70 years of crud in the contacts of the relay. Clean them well, and you'll be whistling for another 70 years.

Mr.bloom:

I've performed all of your tests--- your right the points are a problem when cruddy

the problem I think is the mettle the points are attached to is weak from the heat

created from the points arcing---one point is solid the moving point is the problem

Trying to adjust the points by bending etc just doesn't work --the metal isn't

strong enough to make a strong contact

By going with the ER circut which is a few bucks --I can make several to back up any failures

Thank 

JOHN G

You're welcome. I agree that once the metal is fatigued, you're better off replacing.  Good luck, and keep us posted on your conversion.