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I assume that K-line uses the "big screw under the truck" method on these (I don't

own any, but my K-line E-8 has one). Remove this and turn the flywheel to back the

worm gear out of the truck spur gear. 

 

I had trouble with a Weaver motor removal recently. Turns out that Weaver uses the

large screw AND a smaller one that I did not see as pertinent. Removing it - also under

the truck - solved that.

 

Sometimes a motor gets uncooperative after years of service and "gunk" around the

mount. Wiggle it a bit. 

 

Sorry that I really don't know, but that's all I've got. Try searching for an exploded

view on the 'net, maybe?

 

I haven't taken apart a K-Line truck in a long time, but on the Weaver ones, once you get the big screw out, you have to also remove the screw that holds the pickup roller in place. This one removes from the top and has the power wire connected to it. You reach it through the opening for the wire. Be sure not to lose any insulators you find. Once both screws are out, you can remove most of the truck, but the mounting plate and gear drive will still be there. There are two small screws set deeply into the mounting plate that hold the motor in place. A PZ0 screwdriver is best for removing them. Once you remove those two screws, the motor lifts right out of the mounting plate. 

 

I just happened to be working on a Weaver diesel today and I think the K-Line setup is similar. 

Last edited by Southwest Hiawatha

K-line diesels have a screw on the top of the gear box, as well as the big one on the bottom. It will be on the opposite side of the motor shaft as the big bottom screw. IE, if the big bottom screw is rearward of the motor, the top screw will be forward of the motor. The motor mount is actually the top casting of the gear box.

 

CAUTION: Removing the motor also lets the axles and gears come free. Many that I have worked on also have clear shims between the axle bushing and the gear box. Comes apart easily. Goes back together with a lot of concentration and patience.

 

Do you really need to remove the motor?

Last edited by RoyBoy

Well, this is how it turned out.  Once the bottom screw was removed, the screw that held the collector roller in place had to be removed.  It removed from the top.  After that, the motor easily separated from the truck.  Of course assembly was in reverse order paying close attention to be sure the flat on the gear bearing was facing down at 6 o'clock.

 

All is well and I appreciate all the feed back from everyone who followed this thread.

 

Thank you.

Last edited by Erie Bob

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