Removing oxidation

1) Dismantle the locomotive and remove the trucks.   

2) Place the trucks in a shallow Tupperware container half full of mineral spirits (odorless spirits).  Allow to soak for an hour or two to loosen dirt and oxidation.  

3) With a nail brush or firm toothbrush, gently scrub the trucks and couplers.  

4) Use a dental pick or other similar implement to remove any remaining oxidation. 

5) Lubricate and reassemble.  

Good luck!   

Mitch 

Thanks for responding, I will give it a try.

It works soaking them in motor oil too. Gramps compared cleaning rusty train metal to cleaning his Garrand...Agitation is the key.  Oil is protection and solvent both. You could always see the oil sheen on Gramp's metal 

Let the excess drip off, set on a towel overnight, wipe lightly, .. then you're golden.

Sometimes it takes time & repeating (weeks at first,then months/years) of a little oil and agitation to remove deep rust 100%, and some still black metal is partially oxidized and will never shine again, may or may not rust easily; but mostly don't rust if the metal isn't stripped of oil for long or let to varnish while dirty)rusty.

Low pressure bead blast.  Never around gears or motors.  Blow all grit off, then coat with a good grade of primer asap.  Let that dry, then spray the finish color.

After that, a light coat of oil won't hurt anything, but all you need is oil on the journals and bearings.

Thanks, now retired i don't have access to a blast cabinet. Wired wheeled them with dremel, washed and painted with krylon satin black followed with dull coat. Look good but I agree blasting produces  better results.

bob2 posted:

Low pressure bead blast.  Never around gears or motors.  Blow all grit off, then coat with a good grade of primer asap.  Let that dry, then spray the finish color.

After that, a light coat of oil won't hurt anything, but all you need is oil on the journals and bearings.

SODA blast.  Blast with baking soda.  It will remove rust, dust, dirt, and grime.  And not touch the finish.

That being said, I haven't personally tried it yet.  But I know a guy who does this with old motorcycles.  He blasts the rust and crust off of the chrome rims, spokes, and anywhere else that needs blasting, and makes these bikes look virtually showroom fresh.  Seen 'em both in person and in photos of bikes he no longer has.  Harbor Freight Tools has soda blasting equipment and supplies, amongst others.

First I do soap and water to get rid of dust.  Then WD40 with a toothbrush.  That gets rid of the white stuff and sometimes very light rust.  Then the Dremel tool wire brush - but be sure you never get Magnetraction near where you use the wire brush.

I work with mostly with 1949 and before.  Yesterday I was working with a Magnetraction diesel and forgot to not get it near the wire brush area - looked like shiny whiskers on the wheels.  Found that scotch tape will take it right off the wheels.  Its stickiness is stronger than the magnetism of the wheels.

Thanks for the help.

If you use a wire brush or a wire wheel, use one made of brass. That way it will not be attracted by the magnatraction.

Thanks Roy, so obvious I'm embarrassed to have not thought of that.  I'll get some brass wire wheels and try them.

That's why we are here. Different minds come up with different solutions.

How soaking them in evaporust or metal rescue. Works great . Will remove blue or blackening . You can use cold gun blue to reblue if needed. I am restoring some track with it now. 

dogdoc