Removing Wire Leads from Connector

I have been getting POP UP adds for a set of tools made just for this. On video they seem to work really well, whole set of tools that fit on a key ring.

Thanks Clem.  This?

If you read the instructions by Molex for removing pins from that design, it's a destructive process.  They have you press in the tab on the pin until it's pushed through to the inside of the connector, then the pin falls out.

You can, however, if you're careful, remove them and re-use them.  You need a really fine jeweler's screwdriver, push the wire all the way in to take any tension off the tab, gently press the tab down enough to get it out of the latching hole and pull the pin out.  Typically you'll have to use something like an X-acto knife to gently pry the locking tab back up to have them properly latch when you insert them again.  It helps a lot of you clamp the connector in a small vise, or you'll need three hands that most of us are not equipped with.

Although I do take them out and re-use them at times, most of the time I find it easier to crimp a new pin on.

Messed around with it for a good half hour.  Can't get it off.  Looks like it's gonna be a cut / spice job.

Thanks All.

Ron

Just don't use black electrical tape for the splice, at least use heatshrink to make a neat splice!  We bar you from the MTRS (Model Train Repair Society) if you use black electrical tape!

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Just don't use black electrical tape for the splice, at least use heatshrink to make a neat splice!  We bar you from the MTRS (Model Train Repair Society) if you use black electrical tape!

100% with John.  MTH used electrical tape to hold 2 or 3 layers of boards together.  The adhesive turned into a molasis consistancy.  The goop did a nice job of coating the board.  I imagine taping wires would be more problematic. 

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Just don't use black electrical tape for the splice, at least use heatshrink to make a neat splice!  We bar you from the MTRS (Model Train Repair Society) if you use black electrical tape!

LoL.  Will do GRJ.  I will even make sure the shrink wrap matches the color of the wires. 

I'm taking apart this caboose to hack it up.  So I won't need those wires to be that long anyway.

Thanks All.

Ron

I am in the xacto blade crowd, actually use a #11 scalpel blade also pointed. Push down and back and they are out in a few seconds. One of those things I guess, once you learn the trick its no longer a big deal.

Pete

@Norton posted:

I am in the xacto blade crowd, actually use a #11 scalpel blade also pointed. Push down and back and they are out in a few seconds. One of those things I guess, once you learn the trick its no longer a big deal.

Pete

Something different about these.  As I mentioned in my OP, I have done this before.  These just would not come out.

I used a vise grip to hold the item, pressed with a #11 blade and tugged.  They would seem to want to start to come out a little, but just hung up on something and would stop.

They're cut now.  No going back.  Might start cutting plastic tomorrow. 

Ron

Every once in a while I'd get one of these that was a "stinker" and didn't want to come apart.  I could usually get them, but it was harder than it should have been.  However, if they're not coming out after a couple of minutes, I cut my losses and just lop off the wires and put new pins on.

I learned John's lesson years ago.  If it won't come loose fairly quickly, quit trying and cut.  We had the Molex tools as I recall, besides pins, and crimpers at work.  Here at home, I don't have the tools, though I did buy some pins a few years back and crimped the new ones on with pliers.  I couldn't get the nice curl-in that the correct crimpers produce, but my Rube Goldberg crimps held when I pulled.  Yes, I could have spliced; I have lots of sizes of shrink wrap and a heat gun, but I wanted to be able to use the connectors again in case I needed to disconnect.  I totally agree, electrical tape is a no no!