repair a short on a dual dump car

whoops, I gave the wrong car number, it should be #335955

The wiring to the Twin Bin dump car is different than normal operating cars in that one side of the coil is connected to both slide shoes, and the other coil connection is to chassis ground.

Isolate the coil by disconnecting the wiring to both slide shoes. Apply transformer power to the coil directly. If it still trips the breaker, the coil may be shorted.

There may be an outside chance if you have an older transformer, the breaker may be weak, and there may be nothing wrong with the coil.

Larry

Which transformer are you using?

a 2002 ZW with 2 bricks

Thanks Larry, I'll try your suggestion

Larry,

Tried your suggestion but it still trips, so I will assume it is a bad coil.

John Henry

Start dis-assembling the coil assembly as per the exploded view. You may find a wire with cracked insulation. If not, get the coil completely out, and then check again.

Larry

I'll give it a try, thanks for the drawing, it helps

Larry,

I have to back up. Instead of following your original test directions specifically, I connected wires to the coil feed without disconnecting the wires to the shoes. I figured that since the shoes would not be in contact with the track I could save unsoldering and re soldering them. However, before going after the coil like you suggested, I unsoldered the shoe connections before putting transformer power to the coil. There was no short, although the dump isn't working well (different problem, maybe needs some lube) it does not short. This means the problem is with the shoes. I don't think it's a track problem since my other cars dump fine. I tried cleaning the contact where the shoe meets the track but that didn't help. What can you suggest to help me check out the shoes.

John Henry

If you are trying to operate this car with a regular uncoupling/unloading track (UCS or similar) and pushing the 'Unload' button, then that is your problem.

Most operating cars with sliding shoes have the coil hot wire connected to one shoe, and the ground wire connected to the other shoe. When pressing 'Unload', one rail of the track is hot, and the other is grounded, operating the mechanism. Since the 3359 is wired to have the coil hot wire to BOTH shoes, when you press 'Unload', the wiring shorts out the uncoupling track, and the breaker trips.

You can try operating the car by pressing the 'UNCOUPLE' button. That energizes BOTH rails, which should then properly power the car.

Note the car originally came with 2 OTC lockons to properly energize the car. See here for the schematic to properly wire the lockons.

Larry

Larry,

You are correct, I was using a push button. Problem is resolved thanks to your help.

If you are up to it, I am also trying get my friends steam engine tender (50's vintage) to have the whistle operate. I have a similar tender that I rewired because of worn insulation. This one that I can't get working is a Lionel 6166W. I rewired the connections to the rollers. One roller has a worm groove in it but I think it still makes contact. The other wiring looks to be ok.  I have cleaned the rollers, All I get is a buzz sound when I power it. Any help will be appreciated.

John

I am glad to hear your car is working properly. The different wiring of that car can cause some unintended anguish.

For your tender whistle, with the tender shell off and power to the track, lift the whistle relay contact by hand and watch the whistle motor. Does it try to turn, or turn slowly? Chances are the motor needs a good cleaning and some oil on the armature bearings. The bottom bearing is a bit tricky to oil, and you will need a needle point oiler, or a drop of oil on a toothpick to get at it.

Here is the service manual pages on whistles.

Larry

Larry,

Oiling it did the trick, thanks so much. I really appreciate your quick responses, helpful drawings and great suggestions.

John 

I am glad to hear that your trains are operating now.

Glad to be of help.

Enjoy your trains!

Larry