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The non-derailing feature of one of my Postwar 022 switches stopped working. I have not yet taken it off the layout and opened it up, but plan to do so later today or tomorrow.

Can anyone explain or show how to get the non-derailing feature to work again?

I haven't tried to fix one of these switches in a long time because they have been so durable and reliable. My recollection is that the loss of the non-derailing feature is caused by a metal strip or wire disconnecting that needs to be soldered together to fix it.

In 2 minutes I will post a photo of the switch at issue. It is at the end of one of my reverse loops, so it is important that it work well. Arnold

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20201223_083233

As the switch is set to take the curve as shown above and the gondola is moved from right to left onto the switch, it does not automatically snap back to the straight position like it should.

The non-derailing feature when the switch is set to take the straight works fine. In other words, if the switch is set to take the straight track and the gondola moves onto the curved section of track on the switch from below, the switch snaps to the curved position so the gondola does not derail. Arnold

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Last edited by Arnold D. Cribari

Arnold I’ve had to fix a few of mine. When you take the metal plate off the bottom there are a few silver straps that connect different rails. They will be obvious. The solder joint most likely broke on one end of these. It could also be the pins that slide on the brass tabs may not me making contact. That is in the switch motor. And again obvious when you take the motor off the switch and cover off it.

I concur with C_Murley's and Fendermain's advice.

The most important step to isolate the source of the problem is to remove the switch from your layout.  Even if you have your insulated pins in place, the bottoms of the rails of the adjacent pieces of track can sometimes touch which will defeat the non-derailing feature.

If you remove the switch from the layout and the problem persists then you know that the problem is internal to the switch itself.

After that, as the others above say, turn the switch over and take out the sheet-metal screws so you can remove the stamped steel plate on the bottom of the switch.  I'm doing this from memory, and I don't have an O22 in front of me, but the plate on the bottom may be held on in part by the switch machine so you may have to remove that also.  Be careful not to strip the slots on the heads of the screws as your move them.

After that, there's a bright (non-blackened) piece of steel inside that connects various internal parts of the switch electrically.  Sometimes one of the soldered connections fails.  You'll be able to see this because the one or more of the legs of this steel part won't be attached where you see a blob of solder on the end.  It's a simple enough matter to hold down the disconnected part with your fingers and remelt the solder with your iron.  If you have any doubts, take a working switch from your layout or your scrap box and compare the two.

Finally, once you have it fixed, test the living crap out of it after you reassemble it and put it back into service.  You might also clean and lube it while it's on your bench.

HTH.

Steven J. Serenska

Last edited by Serenska
@Fendermain posted:

Arnold,

I recently had the same problem.  I was able to make the repair by reflowing associated soldering connections.  Those connections looked good but were not.  Reflowing or resoldering those connections worked for me.

John

John, I recently had three 022s in which the non-derailing feature did not work. When I opened them up, it was not obvious that anything was disconnected and needed to be resoldered, like you mentioned in your above reply.

I resoldered the connections and that did the trick to fix one of the 3 switches. That was very good because I only needed 1 switch to go on the layout: the other two were spares.

Thanks again for your advice. Arnold

John, I recently had three 022s in which the non-derailing feature did not work. When I opened them up, it was not obvious that anything was disconnected and needed to be resoldered, like you mentioned in your above reply.

I resoldered the connections and that did the trick to fix one of the 3 switches. That was very good because I only needed 1 switch to go on the layout: the other two were spares.

Thanks again for your advice. Arnold

thank you! I only have O22 Lionel switches. I appreciate the tip. Someday, I may find a couple of Left Turn O22.

Oh, And the Magic of Auto Switch is a mysterious one. I thought that the Magic Smoke had escaped the O22, rendering it useful only to derail my MPC New Haven Diesel twins. Found that the handy traction tires on the engine are VERY effective in mucking up the operations, causing derails.

"The More I know, The More I know how LITTLE I Know"

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