Replace coupler rivets on tinplate cars without opening up the inside of car?

MannyrockOGR Forum Member SUPPORTING MEMBER

Folks,

I found a pair of really beat up Marx O gauge tinplate cars at the flea market for cheap, which originally had the single rivet tab and slot couplers, but are either missing the couplers or have couplers that are totally mangled. These are the cars made for electric trains, where the coupler does not slide rearward on the rivet.

I want to buy and install Marx replacement couplers, but the question is how to install the new rivets, totally from underneath, without removing the car from the frame, as is common with non-tintype cars.

I have a good deal of experience using rivet setters and anvils to install rivets, but these are of no use here because you can't get inside the car.

I also have a good deal of experience using a hand-held, squeeze type, aluminum pop-rivet gun, to set pop-rivets from one side of a metal surface. .

But, before I use the rivet gun, I am wondering whether there is a more practical way to do this. I am a little concerned that the pop-rivet gun will set the rivet too tight, unless I use a slightly overly long rivet.

If you use a pop-rivet gun, do you use aluminum or brass rivets? And, what size and length of rivet do you use.

Don't worry, these cars are not rare or collectible. I have checked that out. A lot of un-bending and repainting is in order.

Thanks for all advice.

Mannyrock

3/24/2112:06 PM

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AceOGR Forum Member

I've done various similar repairs on Marx cars. Why not a self-tapping machine screw instead of a rivet? Drill out the pivot hole of the replacement coupler as necessary. Practical and functional, if you're not concerned about "original equipment" appearance.

If the car needs straightening work, I usually find it more expedient to disassemble the car.

Replacement tab-and-slot couplers can be easily fabricated from steel banding material, cut with tin snips. Cut the slot with a small Dremel wheel. Use an original coupler as a guide for dimensions.

3/24/216:53 PM

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MannyrockOGR Forum Member SUPPORTING MEMBER

Thanks Ace,

I was not aware that it is common to open up the cars. I have a feeling that once I bend a few tabs, I will never get them to look right again.

Mannyrock

3/26/219:03 AM

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Tinplate ArtOGR Forum Member DIGITAL SUBSCRIBER

The trick is to slightly TWIST the tabs instead of bending them when you reassemble the car.

3/26/211:50 PM

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AceOGR Forum Member

If the metal isn't rusty it's usually possible to unbend and re-bend the tabs without breaking. If I think I might want to eventually disassemble the car again, or if tabs break, I'll devise a way to fasten it with screws.

3/27/211:14 AM

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MannyrockOGR Forum Member SUPPORTING MEMBER

Ace, I think I will take your advice and go the self tapping screw route first.

What size/length of screw are you most commonly using please? No. 4, no. 6? No. 8? 3/4 inch?

Thanks,

Mannyrock

3/27/217:40 PM

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AceOGR Forum Member

@Mannyrock posted:
Ace, I think I will take your advice and go the self tapping screw route first.
What size/length of screw are you most commonly using please? No. 4, no. 6? No. 8? 3/4 inch?
Thanks,
Mannyrock

Just use any suitably small size that is conveniently available, and for which you have appropriate size drills. I usually favor 4-40 thread because I have a supply of different lengths, and taps for some applications.

Here's an example of a beat-up Marx tin car that I disassembled for repairs. It straightened up OK and the tabs didn't break.