replacement switches for lionel uncoupler tracks

The controller button box for the UCS track is the same one used for FasTrack Activator track. The buttons for the FasTrack version don't seem like they will stick. (690OUCS0040) or 6-12054

I believe that you would want a Momentary on toggle switch. The size of the toggle is your preference. You could also get a momentary button switch, again size would be your preference. (1/2" to 2")

Not much amperage is needed for the magnets or the cars that use the activation rails.

Search on DigiKey or eBay for Momentary On switches and see what you like. 1 or 2 amp should be enough.

Now for the control board and the future addition of turnout control. You could use 12v lighted switches and control whatever you wish with relay boards from an Asian supplier from eBay. The relay boards use 12vDC and the relays can handle quite a bit of AC or DC, more than you'll use for trains.

Perhaps now would be the time to do a comprehensive design for the control board.

Somewhere I have the wiring schematic that I use, which involves a SPDT push button or momentary toggle for the uncoupler and a DPDT momentary toggle for the unloader.  I'll try to remember to dig it out and post it.  The trick is you do not want the magnet to be energized when unloading, and it may overheat.  Thus, 2 simple buttons cannot be used.

EDIT:  Found it.  Copy attached.

I would add that the left hand button, which is for uncoupling, can be replaced by a SPDT push button.  Connect the wire to the track to the center terminal, ground to the NC terminal, and hot to the NO terminal.

RJR posted:

Somewhere I have the wiring schematic that I use, which involves a SPDT push button or momentary toggle for the uncoupler and a DPDT momentary toggle for the unloader.  I'll try to remember to dig it out and post it.  The trick is you do not want the magnet to be energized when unloading, and it may overheat.  Thus, 2 simple buttons cannot be used

Good point. But, you can use simple activation, just not simultaneously to avoid problems. I don't have any rail activated action cars. Only center magnet. Your method would child proof it, making it one or the other.

Now you make me want to test the Lionel button box to determine if there is protection internally.

Moonman, the old Lionel controller from years ago would short if both buttons pressed simultaneously.

What you call simple activation isn't so simple. Try it. Unless, of course, you don't mind overheating a magnet or unloading when uncoupling.

It's not just child-proofing; it's me-proofing.

RJR posted:

Moonman, the old Lionel controller from years ago would short if both buttons pressed simultaneously.

What you call simple activation isn't so simple. Try it. Unless, of course, you don't mind overheating a magnet or unloading when uncoupling.

It's not just child-proofing; it's me-proofing.

No, I have the FasTrack version. It looks the same on the outside. I only use it to uncouple and the center magnet for an MTH slow movement log dumper.

I'll check it out. It's all your fault.

Edit Part 2: I also only run command or LionChief and the FasTrack Operating track has all of the connections made for track power use. I have never used tubular track or any of that era stuff. Command operation makes things easy. The wiring under the track separates the buttons.

Alas, I diverge from the topic. back to our regularly scheduled programming.

The slow movement of the MTH units is precisely why I don't want the magnet activated.  As an aside, I have converted all my operating cars to operate by an IR detector rather than slide shoes.  The slide shoes would jam on some switches.  Very pleased with results.

All my track is Gargraves.  However, I have some UCS sections in it because I feel the magnets uncouple more reliably.

For the uncoupling tracks, not the operating section, i used doorbell buttons.

RJR posted:

The slow movement of the MTH units is precisely why I don't want the magnet activated.  As an aside, I have converted all my operating cars to operate by an IR detector rather than slide shoes.  The slide shoes would jam on some switches.  Very pleased with results.

All my track is Gargraves.  However, I have some UCS sections in it because I feel the magnets uncouple more reliably.

LOL. I just looked on the bottom of the MTH log dumper and noticed it is slide activated. Nice flat contacts, no shoes. I want it manual for my 5 year old grandson to have something to do.

RJR posted:

The slow movement of the MTH units is precisely why I don't want the magnet activated.  As an aside, I have converted all my operating cars to operate by an IR detector rather than slide shoes.  The slide shoes would jam on some switches.  Very pleased with results.

 

IR detector instead of slide shoes? Cool!  could you elaborate a bit on how you did that, Or is that explained further in another thread? 

Sure.  Over in the electrical side of the forum, look for a thread I started, "

Removing slide shoes from operating cars (formerly: "Reed switch"

https://ogrforum.com/topic/reed-switch

[did not mean to shout:  copy and paste brought it over that large]

It is a long thread, following the development and morphing of the concept of how to eliminate the shoes.  Original thought was to use reed switches over the track electromagnet, but that didn't work well.

Carl, when I built my large layout, some 10 years before DCS, Is included a sub-control-panel for a small yard, fed from my main control panel.  I could leave it set for max voltage (from a ZW), but a Z500 controller on the sub-panel could control the loco, with me able to override it.  An old Lionel 2-track (#64?) log loader, a switch engine, and a couple of log cars, and grandchildren could spend many happy hours dumping logs, moving the cars to the other siding, reloading them, etc. 

Those flat contacts of which you speak give problems on some switches.

Door bell buttons work perfect for me...as mentioned also by Paul.Nick

A DPDT (on)-off-(on) switch can be used to replace the bulky controller.

Here is an example from that other magazine- this works great and is very reliable.