@Isaak570 posted:Please note for the hole 3mm you need to drill just a little large to receive the head of countersunk screw.
It depends of the diameter of the head of your countersunk screw. For me it is 5,5mm. The head of the countersunk must not flush from the adapter plate.
Do you mean the head of the screw must be flush or below the surface of the adapter plate?
Pat, can you have a couple of these ready for me at York? 
Sorry my English is poor, how can I say that, the head of the screw must be to the same level of the plate 
@harmonyards posted:I’m guessing our new found friend is from overseas,….if he’s willing to share his motor swap plate in a drawing, I can surely duplicate it over here ……still curious how he installs the gear on the motor shaft,…..ain’t like those Mabuchis shafts are exactly strong,…..they’ll bow in a heartbeat,…..
Pat
You must drill the hole of the worm with a turn machine with precision exactly to the diameter of the axle of the motor. You must have no mechanical play.
After you fix the worm on the axle with thread lock strong.
@Isaak570 posted:Sorry my English is poor, how can I say that, the head of the screw must be to the same level of the plate
No apology necessary! Your English is miles better than second language I'd attempt! 
Like I said, I think your were basically trying to say the screw heads had to be flush or below the surface of the plate. I just figured I'd clarify that for anyone reading along.
Thanks a heap for doing all the heavy lifting on this and providing the drawing,
@Isaak570 posted:You must drill the hole of the worm with a turn machine with precision exactly to the diameter of the axle of the motor. You must have no mechanical play.
After you fix the worm on the axle with thread lock strong.
With a 2mm shaft on the motor and the 1.98mm hole in the worm, I would think some heat on the worm and just pressing it onto the motor shaft would do the trick. Why do you have to enlarge the worm hole?
An adapter plate can be made with simple tools. You can get aluminum and brass disks on the auction sites or just google aluminum disks or circular plate if you don’t have some handy to use as an adapter. I am using two different motors but the idea is the same as mounting holes are different.
These will help layout your holes. The center head is the key. Scribing a line in two directions will determine center.
Use a center punch where the lines cross. Then use the dividers to measure the radius of the mounting holes on each motor and rotate it around center.
Use the center punch at the crossing points of the circles. In this case I used the two lines at 90 degrees to each other but they can be at any angle as long as the holes are far enough apart to accommodate the screw heads.
Drill the holes and use a countersink bit for the flathead screws.
I used a lead weight from a brass engine as it was handy.
Pete
@Isaak570 posted:..
Thank you for this drawing.
One question though, what is the thickness of the plate?
@Norton posted:An adapter plate can be made with simple tools. You can get aluminum and brass disks on the auction sites or just google aluminum disks or circular plate if you don’t have some handy to use as an adapter. I am using two different motors but the idea is the same as mounting holes are different.
These will help layout your holes. The center head is the key. Scribing a line in two directions will determine center.
Use a center punch where the lines cross. Then use the dividers to measure the radius of the mounting holes on each motor and rotate it around center.
Use the center punch at the crossing points of the circles. In this case I used the two lines at 90 degrees to each other but they can be at any angle as long as the holes are far enough apart to accommodate the screw heads.
Drill the holes and use a countersink bit for the flathead screws.
I used a lead weight from a brass engine as it was handy.
Pete
Yeah! Exactly what I have used! For the plate, the thickness is 2mm and I used my turn machine to cut and dress the plate.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:With a 2mm shaft on the motor and the 1.98mm hole in the worm, I would think some heat on the worm and just pressing it onto the motor shaft would do the trick. Why do you have to enlarge the worm hole?
Yes, you are right, it's another possibility
I found some 1/8" brass 1" plates on eBay, those should work great. Now I just have to find a flywheel with a 2mm hole, the ones I have are all for the Mabuchi 3xx motors with a 2.3mm shaft.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:I'm virtually 100% certain that all the later set PE models have the Series II larger motor.
John, great, I'm glad you're sure! Now I don't have to go up into the attic and get it out and unboxed until Thanksgiving for Xmas! Although I would have been happy too.
Scott
@gunrunnerjohn posted:I found some 1/8" brass 1" plates on eBay, those should work great. Now I just have to find a flywheel with a 2mm hole, the ones I have are all for the Mabuchi 3xx motors with a 2.3mm shaft.
If you have any burned up starter set motors laying around those flywheels should work.
Pete
I measured all the flywheels I have, they're all 2.3mm or 4mm, no 2.0mm ones. However, I suspect I'll be able to find something before my motors and worms come in from China. 
Well, I got my brass plates and the motors, still waiting on the worms.
Looks like they just arrived in the US, maybe I'll get them soon.
Have you looked on the website for Northwest Short Line for the flywheels John? They are the "go to" place in the smaller scales for all things motors, gears and flywheels. A secondary place to look is A Line/Proto Power West. Both deal mostly with HO scale but that where you might find a flywheel in that size with that shaft size. The PE Berk issues that were mentioned in the beginning, prior to the version 2 coming out. Many local folks just went and bought a postwar 726/736 and used it to pull the train, no more power issues then! Thats what would make me open my wallet, a postwar Berk drive with a nice PE style diecast shell on it, along with all the current goodies. With all the add on cars, thats the durability Lionel needs to strive for. AD
Good idea, they had one that looks like it'll do the trick. I just need it for the Chuff-Generator tach strip, the Cruise Commander doesn't need a flywheel to function, but it helps.
Thanks! 
Has anyone gotten all the pieces and upgraded the motor of the Hogwart's locomotive yet?
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