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As Pete said, an electronic e-unit can be installed in ANY loco.  However... if the loco was originally designed for TMCC, there's a good chance you'll lose any sounds.  You won't be able to turn off Smoke by remote control.  Heck, you may not be able to operate the smoke unit from track voltage (it may be designed to go through the command motherboard.)  And obviously, there won't be any provision for remote coupler operation.

If you post the exact product number, some of the electronics experts on the Forum can probably tell you whether it's difficult, or even possible, to yoke an electronic E-unit to the factory sound board.  All that being said, it doesn't mean you shouldn't buy the loco.  It comes down to the price, and features you can or can't live without.  My $.02.

Thank you for your responses.  I was looking at a K-Line 4-6-4T.  I realized that I would lose  sound and electro-couplers but never thought about smoke.  I didn't see any way to manually operate the electro-couplers. I bid what I was willing to risk on a non-operational engine but lost the auction.  Even though the winning bid was only one raise above mine I placed my maximum bid, stuck to it and just waited for the auction to end not wanting to get into bidding frenzy and then possibly regretting the purchase.

Good idea to keep to your max Joe. I see engines like this all the time and think....yea, I could pull the dead boards and put ERR or PS3/2 stacker in and have a running engine again. Even doing what you suggest with a Dallee e-unit and conventional smoke gets pricey.

But then I do the math and I could buy at least one comparable runner for less.
AND I keep my bench free for other projects........

Bob

@coach joe posted:

Thank you for your responses.  I was looking at a K-Line 4-6-4T.  I realized that I would lose  sound and electro-couplers but never thought about smoke.  I didn't see any way to manually operate the electro-couplers. I bid what I was willing to risk on a non-operational engine but lost the auction.  Even though the winning bid was only one raise above mine I placed my maximum bid, stuck to it and just waited for the auction to end not wanting to get into bidding frenzy and then possibly regretting the purchase.

Typically these don’t run because the cruise motor driver dies. Assuming you could jam an E unit in there you would have kept whistle and bell. Chuff and smoke are driven by the motor driver so that would not have worked. Even if you replaced the motor driver with an ERR Cruise M to keep TMCC you still would have come ip with a way to produce chuff and puffing smoke. That would have required more expense and time.

Pete

John that's what I figured.  While I would really like one of those I'm not looking to be in the $500 range.  I thought $200 including shipping would leave room for repairs at a total cost I would be comfortable with.  And if by some miracle it was a loose plug, board or wire I'd be real happy so I placed my maximum bid and stuck to it.

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