Reverse Unit Hanging Up

Steve

I have the same problem with some of my older Marx locos.  I've cleaned and serviced them only to have to resort to the light rap on the boiler to get them to cycle.  So I too would like to know if anyone has a sure fired remedy for this.

I am looking forward to reading some tip and tricks for stickey AF reversing units too.

The armature on an AF reversing unit is made up of two pieces that are hinged together. Sometimes it helps to make certain the surfaces that rub against eachother are clean, and free of rust, grit and/or dirt.  I've tried putting a bit of Neolube between the plates (make certain they aren't stuck together when the Neolube dries.

Sometimes doing this helps, other times, it doesn't.

What about a little piece of scotch tape in there to keep the two pieces from actually touching each other? It works on sticky Lionel whistle relays.

I usually lock them in forward but here are a few tips: http://www.portlines.com/portlinesclinic23.htm

Hi the problem with relays in American Flyer E units in general, they will develope a little residual magnatism as they are being used, so it is good if you can create a little air gap, like a piece of scotch tape as mentioned above or better yet a little teflon tape, the trick is to keep the airgap small enough so you can get the travel needed to do the mechnical cycle. Also as mentioned any place you can improve the frictions points the better the unit will run.

As already mentioned these units are temperamental. They rarely get magnetized though, and if and when they do its best to take the plate off and give it an oil bath, clean thoroughly, clean out the pivot holes on the frame with a rat tail file, and replace as opposed to the tape trick. These units don't seem to have the same pull as a Lionel unit and the tape makes them not pawl at all or pawl weakly. Port Lines' tips are generally my tips as I've used them all. If the pawl is sticking on the up swing, make sure the contact fingers are not pressing too hard on the drum causing excess friction. The sticking pawl is the biggest problem. When apart I clean out the holes where the drum go gently with a rat tail file. Ensure that there are no burrs or marring to the "gear" part of the drum. File smoothly any imperfections or replace the drum. The pawl should float very freely on its pin. Resist the temptation to oil it, instead clean it with solvent to remove any lubricants. Clean the opening on the side where the pawl sticks through to remove any rough edges. If the pawl still sticks, bend the tip of the pawl up or down slightly with a needle nose pliers. These steps usually take care of the sticky AF e-units.

Gandy

I also gently file the edges of the pawl that contact the drum - upon extension and retraction.  Sometimes they are edgy and catch on the drum causing the unit to "hang".  

Tom Barker's instructional video that accompanies his new edition of his repair manual addresses this very problem. Much of (and more) of what has been posted above can be found in this useful video. Viewing is free. See.

http://tombarker.net/TomBarker...ir_Clinic_Movie.html

Bob