I'm getting a 3rd rail Niagara in 2 rail. I would like to know how long ago it was made?
I'll assume they are good runners and I would like to upgrade it to PS3 soon.
Did they come with smoke deflectors? (elephant ears)
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I'm getting a 3rd rail Niagara in 2 rail. I would like to know how long ago it was made?
I'll assume they are good runners and I would like to upgrade it to PS3 soon.
Did they come with smoke deflectors? (elephant ears)
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Still is, Erik.
Sorry to hear that Eric. Looking at it from my point, it's ridiculous that you had to make good on a belt drive? I have the Allegheny and the belt drive runs perfect.
Still is, Erik.
I have about 5 sunset locos with belt drives and I like them. They are rock solid, smooth, and quiet. The belts are toothed printer drive belt (at least in quality and design). If you think about how much wear and tear a printer gets compared to a model loco, the belt should last for ever.
I have about 5 sunset locos with belt drives and I like them. They are rock solid, smooth, and quiet. The belts are toothed printer drive belt (at least in quality and design). If you think about how much wear and tear a printer gets compared to a model loco, the belt should last for ever.
I agree. I have 19 or 20 Sunset/3rd Rail steam locomotive models (in 3-Rail), and all but one has that cog-belt drive. I have found it to be VERY reliable, smooth and quiet when the sound is turned off.
I do have one 3rd Rail model of the NYC Niagara (in 3-Rail), which has been modified internally with some sort of super high out-put smoke unit, which I don't use anyway, since smoke messes up the weathering as well as the track & scenery. It is an excellent performer.
Still is, Erik.
Question for the ebay sellers here: If a bidder has few positives, or some negatives, can said bidder be blocked while the auction is ongoing? I recognize that selling will require more monitoring effort but perhaps could prevent some horror stories of which I've read.
I would have resisted that one. The buyer agreed to buy a locomotive that comes no other way, and then blames it on the seller? No way.
Gratifying to see the tooth belt power finally getting good press. I always thought it was a lot better than any other drop down system.
Question: If a loco with a belt drive sits still -- either in a box or in a display cabinet -- for say ten or fifteen years, does the belt get a 'set', making operation less than smooth ?
Not asked in a 'negative' way, just for future information. I like belt drives.
Best, SZ
Question: If a loco with a belt drive sits still -- either in a box or in a display cabinet -- for say ten or fifteen years, does the belt get a 'set', making operation less than smooth
?
I have not let any of my steam locomotive models sit THAT long, however a few have sat in their storage tool boxes for well over 5 to 8 years, before the spirit moves to to hangout motive power on the layout, and I have never had any issues. Plus, I previously belonged to a very large modular layout, and regularly operated very long trains for over an hour at a time, with no issues either.
Not asked in a 'negative' way, just for future information. I like belt drives.
Best, SZ
I have about 5 sunset locos with belt drives and I like them. They are rock solid, smooth, and quiet. The belts are toothed printer drive belt (at least in quality and design). If you think about how much wear and tear a printer gets compared to a model loco, the belt should last for ever.
I agree. I have 19 or 20 Sunset/3rd Rail steam locomotive models (in 3-Rail), and all but one has that cog-belt drive. I have found it to be VERY reliable, smooth and quiet when the sound is turned off.
I do have one 3rd Rail model of the NYC Niagara (in 3-Rail), which has been modified internally with some sort of super high out-put smoke unit, which I don't use anyway, since smoke messes up the weathering as well as the track & scenery. It is an excellent performer.
I'm now up to four and have own more in the past that I've sold due to changing interests.
Niagara was my first, upgraded to EOB with a MTH smoke unit. There should be a video of it somewhere on my Youtube page. Brass rules and if there was a diecast model and the same model in brass I would buy the brass one.
As for the belt drive I've never had an issue in 15 years of owning 3rdrail engines.
Sorry to drag this back up!
I got the engine and there is no smoke deflectors.
The front pilot truck is not attached. I'm confused on how it does attach? There was a tiny screw laying under it that might help. There are two tapped holes in the pilot's mount. I can only guess that there must have been some type of special washer with one or two holes in it to fill in the larger hole that's in the pilot's bolster area?
Anybody have this model? Any picture or parts lists available?
I will email Scott and see what he says.
Joe, I have a couple of them. It might be few days before I get a chance to take pics, maybe by Sunday.
Pete
Did they come with smoke deflectors? (elephant ears)
YES!
Simon
Thank you! (both)
No rush.
Edit: I found a tiny washer in the packaging. With that tiny screw, I would guess that it's how the pilot mounts? I'm still not sure why I saw 2 threaded holes then?
If I were you, I would be asking the party that sold it where the elephant ears were?????
Simon
I found the pilot's screw stuck to the running gear in the engine. I found the pilot's washer under the packaging with a tiny screw. That screw appears to go under the cab to hold on something. I added a T washer under the pilot for securing and to allow it to pivot without the screw coming loose and falling out again.
I just got the smoke deflectors from Lionel. They ship fast! Like three days or less?
Anyways they would need some modifying to fit. I'm looking at the picture posted above to see where they are supposed to mount. I believe the Lionel model is different than the Sunset (surprise!). I may just do some cutting and grinding of the mounting tabs. The front lower one hits the steps. The other 2 would require drilling holes in the running boards to mount. I was hoping I could form some type of clip for them to mount. I wish they were brass! (scratch build?)
Joe, if you look under the running boards near the cylinders you should see a small hole.
The brass ones had a trapezoidal bracket soldered to the edge of the deflector that ran under the running board and was bent at the boiler. You could fabricate one like that and epoxy it to the diecast Lionel one. As you noted the Lionel mounts should be removed. Your new bracket might have to be made of thicker brass and wide enough to add a second hole to support the heavier Lionel part.
Pete
Thanks again Pete! (Thanks for the email with pictures too)
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