RIGHT way to set up non-derailing reversing loop?

Garrett76,

    You are correct that you need another remote 027 switch, just make sure the switch is one with the non-derailing feature.  

    Yes you have to use insulating pins.   The insulated track is what actually controls the non-derailing feature.

    No you do not have to connect the switch controllers unless you want to, as long as the insulating pins are installed correctly the switches will throw automatically.  

Have fun.

Others have answered your questions, but I have an observation, and a question  for you:

The track switches that offer a non-derailing feature work by a simple process -- a short insulated outside rail section is used to trigger the operating coil to set the switch in the correct direction. This insulated section is integral to the design of the switch. One end is insulated, by design, and the other end MUST have an insulating pin (and NOT a metallic pin) in order for the switch to work properly.  If the insulating track pins are not installed (metallic pins are installed instead, as you seem to imply) then both operating coils will be energized continuously, and will burn out. In addition, since both are energized at the same time, the switch will be completely inoperable.

Are you saying that at the ends of the two actuating rail sections, in your one electrical track switch, there are no insulating pins installed, but there are steel pins in their places, or are you saying that there are no pins of any type at those two locations?

You can go on-line to Lionel's web site to get the operators manual and parts manual for your 027 remote switch.  When running reverse loops I always liked switches which have "fixed voltage" for the switch motor operation.  With fixed voltage the switch snaps in either direction with higher set voltage from transformer. 

I don't believe 027 switches have fixed voltage connections, I could be wrong though.  Sometimes lower voltage in running you locomotives does not give enough power to always through the switch and you have derailments.

TEX

Steve

If your switches are the brown 1970-up types, the manual switch may work for you. 

The action on these is very light - if you take the cover off(one screw) and carefully remove the flat sliding bar from under the swivel rail link and set it aside, almost any locomotive will easily push the rails over to the other direction when trailing the points. 

The drawback is that the swivel rail won't lock into position and it is more likely  that a train facing the points will pick the swivel rail and derail.  You could experiment with a very light spring to hold the swivel rail in one position for the same direction coming into the loop and just let the train push the rail over against the spring when exiting(spring switch).

Fastrack manual switches are non-derailing by design with a very light over-centering spring to hold the points tight in either direction for trains facing the points, and give way very easily to the other when pushed over by a train trailing the points.

Thank you to all.  Metal pins probably explains the loud buzzing I heard when powered up, I guess two energized coils fighting each other.  I will get insulated pins and another remote operated left switch.  I like the idea of fixed voltage switches.  OGRR forum members are the best.

If you want to use fixed voltage, O-27 switches can be modified.  The owner's manual shows how to modify the switches on page 5.

If you're interested I've got several of the older black O-27 remote switches that I'd be glad to send you just for the cost of postage. My email is in my profile.

Scotie

Thanks, I'll contact you for details

I wanted to thank everyone who guided me in this situation.  I did get the switches and reversing loops up and running.  You can see a video here at youtube or at the website listed in my signature file below.  Thanks!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFAaLs0fcxY