In trying to separate the various trim and wheels from the trains, I find that, unfortunately, some are riveted on. Also I destroyed the coupling rods on a bullet train, and that is connected to the body by rivets. So--how do you remove parts riveted to the body of the train, and how do you re-rivet them?
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Cut or drill out the rivets ans reinstall with new rivets.
There is a riveting device known as a Brakeman's Tool that is essentially an automatic center punch with various different tips and/or anvils for toy train rivet repair tasks! :-)
A clock maker's bull nose punch also works well if you can find one the right size.
Are you referring to rivets.
or eyelets?
It makes a difference on how they are installed.
Steve
As noted above, there are different types of rivets. Most of the rivets I drive in toy trains are a type called semi tubular rivets. You need the correct size, length and diameter, and head type for each application. For most applications I prefer a press with the appropriate tools to roll the tubular end of the rivet. A good place to start would be the Lionel service manual pages on their press. A major supplier of presses today is Hobby Horse, which has a web site. I have found that getting the old rivet out is more difficult than putting a new rivet in.
Although the various arbor presses on the market will do a professional job, unless you are doing repairs on a frequent basis, such a device and its accessories would not be cost effective. The Brakeman's Tool would take care of most riveting jobs at a more reasonable cost.
Just make sure if you remove one that you replace it, keeps the universe in balance.
Chris Sheldon
Drilling them out use an oversized bit and just take the head or peened end off. The problem can be the rivet spins easier than the bit cuts. Sometimes a finger can hold it still, sometimes pliers or a screwdriver. Other times it's near useless. Cutting a slot witha dremel disk would allow a straight blade screwdriver to hold it still (also a "save" for stripped Phillips head screws)
Cutting them off may be done with top or side cutters at times, other times the head/end is cut or ground off with a rotory tool's disk or stone wheel.
Securing merhod can vary by rivet type but basically it needs the post end peened.
At any rate, GOOD LUCK! :-)
Hi, actually, I am referring to both rivets and eyelets (I foolishly didn't understand that there was a difference).
Hi, actually, I am referring to both rivets and eyelets (I foolishly didn't understand that there was a difference).
As has already been mentioned in this thread, there is a third type of fastener that should be considered, Semi-tubular rivets.
Lionel typically used semi-tubular rivets and eyelets. These are generally set with a "rolling clincher", which does just what the name implies, it rolls over the hollow end of the fastener and gives a nice neat appearance.
A variant of this is the "star clincher" which neatly splits the fastener into five pieces and spreads them out with a slight curve.
Solid rivets are set by widening the end. In junior high school shop class I was taught to use a "rivet set" to tighten the joint securely and give the end of the rivet a nice looking rounded end.
If I recall correctly, in order to use a rivet set, the length of the rivet sticking through the hole should be about equal to the diameter of the rivet. But I cannot think of anyplace Lionel used this style of fastening.
There were places where Lionel used a splaying clincher (looks like an "X") to upset the end of a solid rivet or similar item sticking through a hole.
I have also used center punches, and cold (metal chisels) to upset the end of a sold item sticking though a hole.
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