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I have researched about what to do about my loco which was purchased second hand in 2011 and am stymied.

Enclosed are pictures of what are 'the PS1 boards' and the motor as well and an 'end cap' picture of the box.

I suspect the motor may be bad but don't know how to check that out but if not then

how do I take the top board off like has been mentioned, to just run conventionally?

Is a 6 amp or more bridge rectifier with 4 leads as Dale H. suggested to bring everything back to

'conventional' mode which is what I am thinking of doing.

Have read GGG's & Gunrunner John's excellent comments as well as Dale H's thru all the threads.

Checking in the operating inst., there is a transformer listed which is a MRC Tech II, however it lists it as

'Variable AC' for outside & inside rails but I don't know how to use that to 'reset' my Dreyfuss.

So, if some of you guys could help direct me, it would be most appreciated.

.4-6-4 MTH RK-1113LP94-6-4 MTH RK-1113LP74-6-4 MTH RK-1113LP114-6-4 MTH RK-1113LP11

So, I'm lost !!4-6-4 MTH RK-1113LP 24-6-4 MTH RK-1113LP 34-6-4 MTH RK-1113LP 44-6-4 MTH RK-1113LP 54-6-4 MTH RK-1113LP 64-6-4 MTH RK-1113-LP

 

 

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Images (9)
  • 4-6-4 MTH RK-1113LP 2: outer white wire is motor ...i think..
  • 4-6-4 MTH RK-1113LP 3: outer yellow wire is motor...i think..
  • 4-6-4 MTH RK-1113LP 4: Yellow & white outdide plugs wires to go to motor but colors are different going on motor.
  • 4-6-4 MTH RK-1113LP 6: just a reference view
  • 4-6-4 MTH RK-1113-LP
  • 4-6-4 MTH RK-1113LP9
  • 4-6-4 MTH RK-1113LP7
  • 4-6-4 MTH RK-1113LP11
  • 13
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1 - you can test the motor by simply getting a DC power source - like an old Tyco power pack; got any friends that do HO? - turning the throttle up, say, half way, and touch one wire to each motor lead - see the light colored wire under your flywheel in photo 4? That's one lead; there will be another one, different color, on the other side. It's a DC motor; the boards turn the track AC into DC. If the motor runs freely, it's OK. Do not use AC from the track directly on your motor.

2 - it's probably your motherboard. All PS1 is "conventional" (not command-control). The sound is just sound. Not sure how they are intertwined.

3 - if you just want to run and care nothing about sound or Protocouplers, get a simple reversing unit from WBB or Dallee Electronics. There will be instructions. The old electronics will go. These units don't cost much.

Have you put a new battery in it?  Although some PS-1 locomotives will run without one, I have since learned that the battery is required for many to work.  And how have you tested the locomotive?  This is how I test PS-1 locomotives.

1) Put a new battery in.

2) Turn the volume knob to half way.

3) Place on track and turn voltage on to 12 volts and listen.  If you hear 3 clanks, it's not going to work, you need to get the board reset kit.  If you hear a double bell and then startup/idle sounds you are good for the next step.

4) Reduce the voltage to 7 volts.  You should get an air hiss/release sound and then a single clink.

5) Push the direction button and it should go into forward.  If you get the double bell again, put a lighted caboose or passenger car on the track next to the locomotive and try steps 3-5 again.  If that doesn't help, put the voltage back to 12 volts and let it sit for 30+ minutes and then reduce the voltage to 7 volts again and push the direction button.  If it still doesn't go anywhere with this locomotive, it may be in deselect mode, which would require a new sound chip from MTH.

 

BTW, I just happen to have this very locomotive sitting on my layout behind me as I type.  I love it.

Thanks for your suggestions, Sinclair. I will try them, although what I get when first turning on is two dings (no clanks) then she sits faithfully waiting with headlight on but not moving when I select a direction. 

Upon turning off she gives out one ding then a sound from the speaker like frying bacon, which is static, I think.

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Videos (1)
trim.3B7512C5-8965-4DF6-A5D2-F16B7D6F4A9D

From the video it looked like you just turned the power off as the headlight didn't come back on.  If that is the case, it sounds about right for the power going off.  That static sound at the end is pretty normal for PS-1 turning off.  That lets you now the battery was disconnected from the sound board correctly so it won't drain the battery.

When you start up lower voltage to less than 10V and try again.  IF still won't move make sure 2 outer pins on engine PCB (go to motor) are not cracked.

Of course it could be software glitch and need to be reset.

Also harness could have a broken wire internally.

WHen you change directions do you get a chuff sound no motion?  If not I suspect more of a board issue than wiring.  G

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