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I got an email from RMT regarding their three rail track.  It looks nice, and appears as though it would be compatible with other tubular track.  RMT has some straights in stock (20" and 30"), and O72 curves that can be ordered now, while the remainder (switches, power tracks, and larger curves and straights) to be available in 2015 (anticipated arrival date not given).  Does anyone have any experience with this track?  RMT says it's back again, leading me to believe it was previously available.  

 

So, I'm wondering about performance and cost. The O72 switches seem less expensive than Lionel, and the O72 curves seem to be on par with the going Lionel price on eBay.  I don't have a feel for the 20 and 30" straights, since there isn't much out there to compare to.  As to actual performance, I'm looking for some first hand knowledge from someone who may have used this in the past.

 

 

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This is the former K-Line Super-Snap track, and it's probably the best full "O" profile track and switches available. The only weak link is the electrical connectors - not flimsy but somewhat delicate - but that's not really a concern as you can use regular "O" pins if needed. I've never used the switches, but reports are always positive... very smooth operation.

I will kick this off.  I hope others with experience with the former K-Line and K-Line by Lionel SnapTrack line will also chime in here.

 

I have found the SnapTrack 0-31 and 0-72 switches for tubular track to be reliable in most applications.  The 0-31 switches have a footprint that is identical to Lionel 0-31 tubular switches and I believe the same thing is true with the 0-72 switches.

 

I don't have any experience with the long SnapTrack straights.

 

I have found the SnapTrack switches to be, "good to use".

 

Right now I am using FasTrack for my layout.

 

Hope that is a help.

 

Ed Boyle

Last edited by Ed Boyle

My reply is the same as Ed Boyle above.  My previous 3 layouts used K-Line Shadow Rail and Snap-Track, with the 0-31, 0-72 and the older 0-42 switches.  All worked

very well when screwed or glued down. I had, at one time 20 switches and 300 pieces of track.  Now I am in a small apartment and a 4 x 10' layout of Fastrack on top of green indoor/outdoor carpet, sitting loose on the table.

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Last edited by Larry3railtrains

Interesting product. I have seen it here and there (as K-line product). Too toy-like for me. Tall; tie attachments stick out.

 

Question: I seem to recall there being TWO K-line track/rail types - one with a FAR lower

and better-looking profile than the other. Very appealing Hi-Rail track.

 

Am I hallucinating again, or was that a different company/product, or what? 

FWIW, the KLine/RMT switch motors are electrically/mechanically alike to the Z Stuff motors.  I found that they can have the same non complete throw as the Z Stuff ones do. 

That said the switches are smooth operating BUT some engines will short circuit on the switches requiring judicious use of electrical tape to isolate part of a rail or points to remove the shorting.

All my trackwork is KLine tubular with the track pins.  The switches have the plastic tangs to lock into next track pieces.  I just nipped them off when connecting to the track as this is on a permanent layout.

Bob,

I have used a lot of this track and like it. When RMT was selling this before I bought  quite a bit of it in all the lengths and curves up to 40 inch straights. I use regular steel pins between the pieces and frquently cut off the plastic connectors and small metal contacts at the ends. It mates perfectly with Lionel O gauge track and works great as I like working with tubular track. One lesson I learned the hard way was that if you mate a piece of Super Snap track to Lionel tubular track, you have to cut the metal contact off the center rail of the Super Snap track. If you don't, it can touch the black Lionel tie and cause a short.

 

The switches are good but not great. IMO they are a big improvement over the regular Lionel switches. Some engines spark or stall out going through the switches, both the 031 and 072. Not a big problem on the main lines but a significant issue in the yards. My MTH 0-8-0 Aliqueppa and Southern switcher has a really hard time negotiating the switches whereas my MTH B&M S2 switcher has no problem. Some experimenting with black electrical tape on some of the rails of the switches solves most of the issues. I would buy the Ross tinplate switches if I didn't have to wire them to be non derailing. It seems like a bigger project than I want to get into.

 

Overall I really like the track. If I were to build another layout I would use it again.

 

Ed Kazarian

Bob,

 

I went down to count up how many Supersnpp switches I have in order to give you some idea of the quality control. I have a total of 50 031 and 072 switches. Of the 50 switches, 2 arrived defective. On one the anti derailing didn't work and on the other the motor didn't work. The other switch I could not fix the anti derailing so I'll use the motor on it for a replacement.

 

A lot of the switches I bought from RMT. Actually, I just placed an order for some more.

 

Hope this helps your thought process.

 

Ed Kazarian

Originally Posted by D500:
Question: I seem to recall there being TWO K-line track/rail types - one with a FAR lower and better-looking profile than the other. Very appealing Hi-Rail track.

The other track system you are thinking of is the O-27 profile Super-K track in the K-500 to K-599 series, with brown plastic ties as found on the O-27 profile 27" & 42" switches.

Last edited by ADCX Rob
Originally Posted by phillyreading:

I have used the K-Line straight tracks and a few curves and they work very well, plus I use the O gauge track pins with them for better electrical connection.

 

Lee Fritz

I do one extra step in that I coat each pin with silver conductive grease.  Helps slide the pieces together as well as increase conductivity.  So far no failures.

Originally Posted by rrman:
Originally Posted by phillyreading:

I do one extra step in that I coat each pin with silver conductive grease.  Helps slide the pieces together as well as increase conductivity.  So far no failures.

Two questions.  Where do I find this grease?  Since it makes it easier to connect the track, does it also make it easier for the track to come apart?

Originally Posted by Bob Severin:
Originally Posted by rrman:
Originally Posted by phillyreading:

I do one extra step in that I coat each pin with silver conductive grease.  Helps slide the pieces together as well as increase conductivity.  So far no failures.

Two questions.  Where do I find this grease?  Since it makes it easier to connect the track, does it also make it easier for the track to come apart?

Hi Bob,

Silver grease made by Circuit Works part number CW7100.  It is a 6.5 g push plunger tube and pricy, but like the Brylcreem saying "A Little Dab'll Do Ya!". I squeeze out a small amount on plastic dish, then use my finger tip to rub around (thin coat) pins.   Suggest doing alot of track pins then clean fingers then put tracks together.

 

Sources (lowest to wow prices)

http://www.grainger.com/produc...ductive-Grease-1UYE2

http://www.alliedelec.com/sear...il.aspx?SKU=70219348

http://www.newark.com/chemtron...inge-6-5g/dp/00Z1500

http://www.mouser.com/ProductD...xhwziN1bUWefJg%3D%3D

http://www.digikey.com/product...100/CW7100-ND/307001

 

My layout is permanent so can't speak if unfastened track would more easily come apart with grease, but if track openings are VERY slightly pinched oval, everything should remain connected.

 

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