Ross & Gargraves curves the same?

That's a big NO!!!!  I gave up on the badly made Gargraves sectional curve pieces for Ross as Gargraves are not formed correctly 

I guess Ross it is eh.  I think Ross is even a bit cheaper than the gargraves eh

 

I never bought any of the gargrave sectional pieces but sure love the flex track...

and its VERY economical too.

I have some of the gg flex personally I think its kind of a pain to use for curves thats is why im going to use sectional curves and use the gg flex for straights and misc curved sections eh

 

I wouldn't say "not formed correctly", but GG curves are not exactly, say, 072 (I'll use 072 as a standard when posting).

 

Look here and select "Curved Track Specs":

 

http://www.gargraves.com/diagramsandinstructions.html

 

You can see the centerline is not exactly 072.

 

RCS curves are what they say to center rail.

 

I use both and get good results.

 

HOWEVER...Ross rails are glued and spiked to solid ties, Gargraves rails are inserted into grooves in each tie.

 

1st photo shows Ross curved track:

 

2nd photo shows Gargraves track, you can see the grooves in the ties:

 

 

I can't tell if one brand is quieter than the other, but I favor the Ross overall.

You must be converting to 2 rail eh  

 

You must have been from Canada originally, eh? 

The answer is NO!  But GG sectional curves are formed to GG's standard.  The dimensions are published by GG and you will fine them on their website.  Ross curves are formed to Ross's standard which is the same curvature as their switches.

 

So both are correct for their respective manufacturer.  

 

 

Ron

 

Yes Chad, started back in May of this year.  I not only converted the 3-rail track to 2-rail, I ditched the command control system I was using and installed battery-powered, remote-control in all 8 of my steamers (in other words...yet a different command and control system ).  No expensive mega-amp power supply, no wiring whatsoever to my layout at this time.

 

Instead of having to use a 200-400+ page book to figure out how to run a train I used about 4-6 pages of installation instructions to get an engine converted, turned on the transmitter and receiver, and gave the speed control knob a twist.

 

It doesn't have a fancy display screen, sound (well, 1 engine actually does but I've gotten use to just the sound of the train going down the track), smoke, or the other accouterments "They" tell us we all must have, but the engines run just fine without them.  I feel I'm actually driving the engine now instead of "the system" driving me.

 

Now with BlueRail Trains coming out with boards that will run via rail power or battery power on a smart phone/Ipad/PC I can see a big change in the game coming, very soon.

Na just Wisconsin Eh lol

I dreaded bending the Gargraves when I started my current layout. I had never used GG flex before. All the horror stories made me wonder if I had made a mistake buying 2 cases. 

Made a small jig from scrap OSB, placed a section of GG in it.....prepared myself to ruin a few sections before I got it right.......didn't happen. First time it worked perfect.

Found that after years of HO and N flex the GG was EASY!!! N scale is MUCH harder by a long shot. 

Unless it's a temp layout I see no need for sectional curves.  

From a cost standpoint, be sure to compare the number of sections needed to complete a circle.  For example, for 072, 12 pieces of GG are needed; but, 16 pieces of Ross are required.

Since the 072 curves are different with Gargraves and Ross, does that mean that Gargraves and Ross 042 curves are different too?

If so I may have to order some Ross 042 curves as I am changing over to Ross 042 switches.

 

Lee Fritz

I have all gargraves track in turn outs. Including I have sectional curves that are v 4254 72 80 89 and 96. All are just fine. And gargraves track is less expensive than Ross. There is a difference in height of track. I don't remember which one is taller than the other one but there is a slight difference.

Off topic but I have to ask, Bob what did you use to convert your locos to battery? Perhaps start another thread on this but I am interested in that concept because the idea of eliminating wires, crawling around on the basement floor etc.  I am not a big supporter of the folks in the "they" camp and very willing to learm. 

the difference is slight, 072 GG is 072.59. you won't have a problem with Ross switches as long as you use all GG track or all Ross track. don't mix them. 

 

Give this a try:

 

https://ogrforum.com/t...imperial-0-6-0-video

Not sure if everything is laid out in those posts, but enough to give you an idea.

 

I also frequent the Freerails forum:

 

http://www.freerails.com/

 

They cover a lot of scales and have O scale and RC sub-forums, I have a number of posts in each.

Back to the subject...Gargraves flex track is great for straight runs and yards, transition pieces, and oddball curves, but I prefer Ross curved sections if I want accurate, easy to lay down trackwork.

 

One other thought, think about going as large as you can on the radius, not as small as you can.  Your engines and rolling stock will not only look better you'll be able to run a few more pieces (longer, larger) than if you go with smaller radius curves.  This, along with around the wall framework, make for an ideal layout.  Decide on what height and maximum width (you can reach across) before you start.

I defiantly agree eh!