Ross switch controllers

the dzs sometimes have a mind of their own.  Usually I have found that the machine itself is not fully going one way or another. 

Do you have the controllers mounted on a metal plate ?  The LED sockets protrude beyond the controller back face mounting plain and short out on the metal plate.  This can cause erratic operation and/or also burn out the controller.  

Has anyone developed a SPDT momentary contact toggle switch w/ led lights yet?

Those DZ1002's are prone to fail.  We need a trouble free replacement.

I replaced the 1002P's with SPDT toggle switches but have not attached lights as yet. My plan is to use Z-stuff dwarf signals with 1008 relays to note turnout direction.

Dan I have a whole bunch of unused 1002 controllers if you want  - pay shipping plus $2 each.

Joe

Thanks Joe.  I'll take 4 1002s to cover "just in case" moves.  Let me know shipping.  Do you take PayPal?  I'll need your email address.

My email: dbhorner@att.net

My address:  Dan Horner, 341 Summerdale La., St. Louis, MO  63132

Dan:

I will buy a padded envelope and send first class - figure this to be cheaper than priority mail small box at $6.80. I will let you know what the final prices is.

PayPal account is ModelStructures@cableone.net

Joe

After reading all comments about the DZ1002, I took a SPDT momentary contact toggle switch and used it in place of the two push buttons on the DZ1002. The DZ1002 I used had malfunctioning leds.   I unsoldered the two button switches and wired the green and yellow ends of the push button locations to the ends of the toggle switch and wired where the black or ground wire (middle) on the push buttons go  to the center post on the toggle.

It worked!!  I put a red and green 3mm led in each of the led slots on the 1002 ( checked for polarity) and it works with the leds as it is supposed to.

Seems to tell me that the real problem with the DZ1002 is the push buttons.  As future problems occur with the 1002's, I will simply modify them and install the leds and toggle switch in place of the 1002 on my control panel.

bruce

Bruce:

Excellent job!

A note to Ross / Atlas O turnout users. I started with Atlas O and have been slowly moving over to Ross turnouts with DZ1000 motors. As Bruce has done I use SPDT mom toggle switches on a control board to switch the turnouts. For Ross a ground wire goes to the SPDT and power connects to the middle post on the switch motor. All wiring diagrams for Atlas O have power going to the SPDT and ground connecting to the middle post of the switch motor. This is how I started to wire my control board. Bottom line it makes it difficult to change from an Atlas O switch motor to a DZ1000 since power and ground need to be re-routed.

As it turns out Atlas O Technical Service says there is no problem running ground to the toggle switch and power to the switch motor since their switch motors 'are dual coil so polarity will not matter'.

This makes wiring the control board much simpler and also makes future changing of switch machines at the turnout very easy. Obviously a Ross turnout with a DZ1000 is a beautiful and well crafted turnout. I am also very fond of my Atlas O turnouts and never had any issues with the quality of the turnout. However I have a history of burning out the motors. Changing to toggle switches and adding diodes in the power line seem to have solved this problem.

So for Atlas O I will run power to the switch machine and add the diode just before the connection to the machine post. I will leave enough slack in the wire so that if I need to change from Atlas O to DZ1000 I only have to cut the diode out before making connection to the DZ1000 (According to D Zander the diode is not necessary since there is one inside the machine and the added diode will cause the DZ1000 to malfunction) .

Joe

My controllers have worked for years with no problems installed with sticky back on painted plywood control panels.

The panels are mounted for adult access where children can't reach the controls.