Ross Switches - Cutting them down - Can it be done?

I would think so, just check the bottom to see if you will need to replace the jumpers, assuming yours have them.  Cutting track is so easy with the dremmel and the large metal wheel and a sharp file to take off the burrs.  (Wear eye protection)

Roger:

Rather than cut 4.65" from the Ross straight maybe try removing a 10 inch Fastrack front in front of it and replace with a 5.5 inch track? That would give you 4.5" of the 4.65. Can one cut Fastrak straights?? You have plenty of those but only one Ross turnout.

WHY?  Lionel makes O31 FasTrack switches!

Plus FasTrack and Ross uses different puis.  Also FasTrack rails are staggered.

Model Structures posted:

Roger:

Rather than cut 4.65" from the Ross straight maybe try removing a 10 inch Fastrack front in front of it and replace with a 5.5 inch track? That would give you 4.5" of the 4.65. Can one cut Fastrak straights?? You have plenty of those but only one Ross turnout.

I am considering switching over to all Ross Track and Switches.

I have cut a number of Ross O31 Switches to get a tighter yard ladder.  Just cut the straight leg at the "top" of the switch.  Clamp it and use a Dremel wheel or a hacksaw.

George

G3750 posted:

I have cut a number of Ross O31 Switches to get a tighter yard ladder.  Just cut the straight leg at the "top" of the switch.  Clamp it and use a Dremel wheel or a hacksaw.

George

I have a dremel tool. Do you use the large thicker cutoff wheels that seem kind of fibrous?

I'll make you the deal of the week. I concur, pull a section of your FasTrack. Put in your Ross switch and measure the remaining gap. I have some GarGraves straight track laying around. Depending upon the length, I may even have a piece of Ross straight.

I'll cut it to length and mail it to you, if you will pay for the postage. My email address is in my profile. Feel free to contact me offline if you're interested.

And yes, the GarGraves track will match-up perfectly with your Ross switch.

Gilly@N&W posted:

I'll make you the deal of the week. I concur, pull a section of your FasTrack. Put in your Ross switch and measure the remaining gap. I have some GarGraves straight track laying around. Depending upon the length, I may even have a piece of Ross straight.

I'll cut it to length and mail it to you, if you will pay for the postage. My email address is in my profile. Feel free to contact me offline if you're interested.

And yes, the GarGraves track will match-up perfectly with your Ross switch.

I appriciate the offer, but I am not sure I understand what the offer actually is.

Pull a section of FasTrack

Install your Ross Switch

Measure the remaining gap between the FasTrack and the Ross Switch

I cut and mail you a GarGraves or Ross straight track section

You pay postage.

The small 11.25° curve to complete the 45° turnout is included with the FasTrack switch.

You can also cut a FasTrack straight (stop at step 4) and use O gauge pins or Ross#901.

The wheel for metal is thicker and I think when new it says right on it that it is for metal, looks fibrous.

Moonman posted:

The small 11.25° curve to complete the 45° turnout is included with the FasTrack switch.

You can also cut a FasTrack straight (stop at step 4) and use O gauge pins or Ross#901.

Again, I am considering changing track systems, altogether, from Fastrack to Ross track and switches, and I know that Fastrack can abe cut down to length, but I am not really interested in that. What I am interested in is if I can cut the Ross O-31 switches down to the Fastrack base size, so that they will fit nicely into my pre-designed layout.

I also understand that the Fastrack 11.25 degree section comes with the switch, in order to fill out a full 45 degree turnout, as I have several of them

_______________________________________________

My questions here are in regard to the possibility of cutting the Ross switches back to the 33.75 degree length on the turnout.

I am reasonably sure that I can cut the 4.65" off the straight section to get it back to the same 10" length as Fastrack.

I suppose we differ... I cut a cheap piece of FasTrack instead of a nice Ross switch.

yes, many ways to fit this switch in. Just trying to keep it intact for the track geometry if/when you convert to another track system.

You still need a way to connect the rails.

Moonman posted:

I suppose we differ... I cut a cheap piece of FasTrack instead of a nice Ross switch.

yes, many ways to fit this switch in. Just trying to keep it intact for the track geometry if/when you convert to another track system.

You still need a way to connect the rails. 

Very true, and I totally realize that cutting into a switch is not at all trivial stuff.

The issue that I have is that, in my pre-designed track layout, I have a main loop with a long siding, from one end accross to the other end of the loop, and then another siding off of, and inboard of that. In this layout design, I have used fastrack switches without the 11.25 degree sections, to make this work in the most efficient way possible.

Now that I am considering switching to Ross track and switches I am trying to determine if I need to make major changes to my layout design or not. I am also trying to determine how much of the fit-up may need to be done on the fly, as I will most likely not get the Ross switches to the exact, or maybe even close to the fastrack 33.75 degree turnout length.

Regarding connecting the rails: Steve, at RCS tells me that the Ross connector pins can be inserted wherever the track has been cut.

Ok, you need to cut the turnout and the thru leg.

Attached is a template 1:1 scale using the RCS radius O31 cut to 33.75°. This should help marking the turnout for the cut. Print this in landscape mode. The way to check this is to measure a straight line on the center rail of FasTrack turnout from the start and across to the end of the turnout. Then use the same measurement to mark the cut on the RCS turnout. It should be very close to 9" (9.03")  Use a square to mark at 90° across the rail top and you have the cut line.

You can save the cut off piece.

My concern is making the Ross rail connectors work with the FasTrack. You would have to loosen the rails and pull the pins. Then tighten the rail tabs and ream the holes with a 7/64" drill. Now you can use the Ross #901 to join the FasTrack. It's the Ross to Lionel O pin.

You may also need to shim the switch with masonite or Rossbed to match the rail height to FasTrack