Ross track spikes

i didn't pre drill

I bought a piece of track to practice on and I did manage to split a few of the ties.  Maybe I pushed too far.  I will get another piece and just practice some more. By the way how did you drive the spikes, I bought a pair of spike pliers from micro mark that I used.

Depends what ties you're using. Ross ties are pretty soft. Others not so much. Some ties will split no matter what you do. If you want to drill it, just measure the diameter of the spike and choose a bit smaller than that.... I bet any bit below a #70 would do it.

The ties would be Ross. 

I have a hunch our OP once hand-laid track in HO.   It's one of those lessons I learned while attending "The School of Hard Knocks" in my HO years.  Many of the commercial wood HO ties were prone to splitting when driving a rail spike.   Sugar pine integrity ain't worth a poopie when it comes to putting in four spikes along that straight-grained thin wood!!  After gluing down the ties to the roadbed, it wasn't very convenient to replace a badly split/damaged tie.  And, yes, it was quite obvious to the casual observer...and me!...that the tie was mangled!

So, I then learned that it was prudent to pre-drill spike holes to minimized tie splitting.  Two thoughts occurred to me then: 1) Well, duh!, and 2) This hand laying the track is going to get old very quickly...maybe in about one more foot!!!  (Only about 25 more scale miles to go, you say???)  And a Kadee spiker gun and spikes was w-a-y-y-y-y beyond a starter's budget!!

But, yes...I've had occasion to put a few spikes into Gargraves ties, and pre-drilling is NOT necessary.  Which, of course, is just one more of a gazillion reasons why working in O scale is putting the FUN back into the hobby for this septuagenarian.

Meanwhile, back at the ranch...

I have hand-laid a little Ross track, and also modified or repaired some Ross turnouts. I am using the "medium" spikes from Llagas Creek. These are about 3/8" long, and intended for laying track in 1:32 scale, G gauge. These spikes are working well for me with Ross ties and rail, which is rather over-size for O.

I also use the Micro Mark spike insertion pliers, and I don't pre-drill. I have not had trouble with ties splitting. I do make sure each spike has a point on it before using it (sometimes, the end is not cut correctly). I drive the spike in with the head leaning away from the rail at a pretty good angle. Even so, the spike sometimes protrudes slightly through the bottom of the tie -- something to be aware of if you are working at the bench.

My first attempts were using regular needle-nose pliers, and in that case I did have to pre-drill, as I could not grip the spike firmly enough to drive it in without a pilot hole. Bent a lot of spikes, and left pliers-shaped divots in ties, too. Not a problem with the Micro Mark pliers; they hold the spike firmly, even though they do not close fully over these G-gauge spikes.

If you cut the head off your spike and use the spike as your drill bit you will have the exact size of the spike. The spike will drill through the ties easily. If you use a drill bit the size of the spike it will probably break. If the bit gets dull, use another spike to make another bit.

@gene maag posted:

If you cut the head off your spike and use the spike as your drill bit you will have the exact size of the spike. The spike will drill through the ties easily. If you use a drill bit the size of the spike it will probably break. If the bit gets dull, use another spike to make another bit.

What kind of drill bits to you use?  The Ross ties are pretty soft wood, I don't think I could find a drill bit that would break in them!

Truthfully, if you use the spike to drill, when you actually use it to hold track, it's probably going to be pretty loose and not much good.  The wood has to exert some pressure on the spike in order to hold it.

I have  used a lot of small drill bits and if you are not careful they can snap in a large drill. The head of the spike should hold the track tight enough because it will be flush with the top of the tie. I have done it and it works for me.

A 23 gauge pin nailer works great and I have never split a tie.  You can purchase different length nails depending on the thickness of your roadbed. The holes are so small you can barely see them yet they have amazing hold considering there size. The glue that binds them heats up through friction upon entry and then sets after cooling. An arrow 23 gauge cost about 40 dollars on Amazon and will last at least one railroad.  Harbor freight has one for 19 but I don’t know how good it is.  I have a Metabo that has held up well.  These guns can do a lot more than spike ties ( think kit assembly ). Once you have one you will never understand how you did without.

@gene maag posted:

I have  used a lot of small drill bits and if you are not careful they can snap in a large drill. The head of the spike should hold the track tight enough because it will be flush with the top of the tie. I have done it and it works for me.

I use a small drill.   However, the pin nailer sounds like it would be quicker...

CHOKMAX Cordless Rotary Tool Kit

I want to use the spikes to hold the rail to the tie so I don't believe a nail gun would work

My mistake, I thought you meant fastening preassembled track to the plywood.  I think a bit one number smaller and a pencil type drill like GunrunnerJohn posted would be the best.

Try a search:  Brad Starter, or Brad Pusher.  Used for very small trim nails.