Replies sorted oldest to newest
What type of switch machine are you using? Look on the Z-Stuff web site and print out the wiring for non-derailing. Is this what you are looking for? If it is just a simple loop some time back Jim Policastro (sp) displayed a picture using a paper clip or something like that to allow the switch points open with the wheels and then spring back.
Doug
I hate those little pieces of S shaped wire in the Z Stuff switch machine.
When I saw my first 3 rail switch I knew I'd be getting rid of those things.
I have under the table switch machines but if you want to keep the Z Stuff ones you can do this.
Get a length of stainless steel wire(I use 0.032 stainless TIG welding wire) and bend it around a medium handle X-Acto knife handle. 3 turns should do it.
Now attach one end to the switch machine like that S shaped thing was and the other end to the throw bar on the switch now you've got a spring there instead of the S shaped piece of wire and it'll allow the engine and cars to drive thru the switch without you have to do anything.
David
I hate those little pieces of S shaped wire in the Z Stuff switch machine.
When I saw my first 3 rail switch I knew I'd be getting rid of those things.
I have under the table switch machines but if you want to keep the Z Stuff ones you can do this.
Get a length of stainless steel wire(I use 0.032 stainless TIG welding wire) and bend it around a medium handle X-Acto knife handle. 3 turns should do it.
Now attach one end to the switch machine like that S shaped thing was and the other end to the throw bar on the switch now you've got a spring there instead of the S shaped piece of wire and it'll allow the engine and cars to drive thru the switch without you have to do anything.
David
David, could you post a picture of this home made spring. I'm wondering if this spring might solve the issue of some diesel steps hitting the S shaped wire supplied by Z-Stuff. I have solved most of my problems by moving the switch machine from one side to the other but I still have one trouble spot and I have been looking for a solution. Your spring might do it if it is a lower profile than the S shaped wire supplied by Z-Stuff.
Dillon,
I don't think it'll be a lower profile than the S shaped wire. The only thing you could do would be to mount the spring I described up side down attaching it on the under side of the switch machine and throw bar. I know there's not much clearance there as my MTH F-3's kept hitting the wire on mine sticking up from the switch machine till I cut it off almost flush.
The other alternative is to mount it under the table . Believe me it's not that hard to do. If you look at a picture of the tortoise ,it has a wire that passes thru a hole and the hole acts as a fulcrum . You could do the same thing with a piece of sheet metal with a 1/8 hole drilled in it with the top of the metal bent in a 90 degree bend.
It looks a little nicer too.
David
... If it is just a simple loop some time back Jim Policastro (sp) displayed a picture using a paper clip or something like that to allow the switch points open with the wheels and then spring back.
Doug
Here it is! Any thin wire will work - experiment with different lengths and bends to hold the switch points securely in place, but still be flexible enough to allow the lightest loco pilot truck wheels to push through the points.
Jim
Attachments
... If it is just a simple loop some time back Jim Policastro (sp) displayed a picture using a paper clip or something like that to allow the switch points open with the wheels and then spring back.
Doug
Here it is! Any thin wire will work - experiment with different lengths and bends to hold the switch points securely in place, but still be flexible enough to allow the lightest loco pilot truck wheels to push through the points.
Jim
I hadn't thought about it but if you made the spring I described and put the spring part where Jim has that bend in the wire then yes Dillon it would be out of the way of any steps.
Like I said I'm using under the table switch machines but I don't think it would be hard to make it work.
This is the first one I did. I've since found out that a few more turns of wire hold the pressure well but will allow an engine coming from the opposite direction to drive thru the switch.
That whole set up is smaller than a quarter.
David