Royal Blue Rebuild

Russell,

If it is at all possible I would try to go with the motor with the flywheel, it will give smoother operation. I would look at the removal of the cross-brace, I think it was placed there for the possible attachment of a different type of trailing truck which mounted to the brace. I like your idea of adding the smoke to the engine, maybe another project for me to add to the pile.

Ray

The smoke unit modification is the one I've done on all the Daylight RB repaints I've done, works fine. I use AF open pole motors, but a can motor will do fine.

Rayin"S" posted:

Russell,

If it is at all possible I would try to go with the motor with the flywheel, it will give smoother operation. I would look at the removal of the cross-brace, I think it was placed there for the possible attachment of a different type of trailing truck which mounted to the brace. I like your idea of adding the smoke to the engine, maybe another project for me to add to the pile.

Ray

I definitely agree. If it's possible go with the flywheel motor. I've been thinking about doing one of these but the old motor would have to go. I put in a can motor in an older AF steamer I had and whished I had gone with the flywheel it makes a big difference. 

I'm going to use the can motor with the flywheel.  I have to grind of a bit of the material on the brace, but not all of it.  Should work out fine.

Now I am looking for a way to hook up the smoke unit and light directly to the trucks.  The Royal Blue jack panel only allows for the two wires, so I am looking for a micro type of connector to attach to the panel.

Trying to find a good paint match now.

Switch to the later 4 pin plug panel, it's the same size, and that would simplify the whole thing--and look ACG authentic.

I have one of those, and it is too large for the Royal Blue shell.  The Royal Blue panel is shorter and narrower than the usual 4 pin jack panel.  Do they make a jack panel that is smaller?

I am also looking for a set of New Haven passenger cars to repaint in the Royal Blue scheme.  Since the engine is going to be nowhere near original, I am switching the engine over to the sintered iron knuckle coupler trucks.

Well, the silver bullet version came with KC trucks, so that's not so Unusual. Russell, I'll have to check my shells, but I wasn't aware of the panel being a different size. The front truck is unique to the RB/SB body shell though. While you're modifying things, you might look for a pull-mor wheel chassis to put under it too.

Finally dug out one of my parts books--easier to find than my RB boilers, and the part number for the two-wire panel is different than the other locomotives' panels. So much for the 4 prong idea, although it might not be too difficult to cut a 4-pin panel down to fit the RB cab.

I found a small computer fan connector that I am going to try.  Going to glue the large female end inside the boiler on the cab ceiling and see how it works out.

try dean's connectors. Small, but carry lots of current.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Deans-...e:g:5ukAAOSwojRYSyD4

Well, I have it painted now.  I went ahead and spent the cash for the paint from Portlines.  I must say it is very nice paint.  I probably spent as much trying other paints that said they were Royal Blue, but were not.  Decided to use a prewar Royal Blue tender since I like the look of them better than the postwar ones.

Got a nice connector for the smoke and light to run directly from the tender trucks.

Nice work Russell.

 

 

Rich

Keep us posted! 

BTW,I've also used Port Line's paints, and they're great. 

 

 

I have the decals on the tender and boiler.  Also installed the trucks and e-unit in the tender.

 

That is nice paint.  How many cans did it take for you to cover your engine and tender?  I will be doing a prewar Royal Blue and the matching coaches so will need a bit more.

 

Thanks,

It took a bit over half a can, but that was because I had to repaint the boiler when I had a contamination on the boiler and the paint didnt stick the first time.

Contamination is an ongoing problem with painting. Many products today contain silicone, which really will drive one nuts. If you used DOT3 brake fluid, it's hard to get it out of the pores of the metal or plastic (yes, they both have pores, microscopic, but there). Before stripping, clean the object carefully with a good cleaning agent, like a Citrus based one. Purple power is good, but can effect some plastics. Oil from you hands also can give you problems, so after sanding, clean again! After priming a very fine sanding pad to smooth out the primer--and then clean again (not with Purple clean, it will take off your primer! Use a gentler cleaning product--too many out there to suggest one!). After cleaning, do NOT touch the primer with your bare hands. I have a small block of wood with some masking tape wound around it to provide a "Springiness" that I put the boiler or tender body on (so it stays put on the wood block) and handle it with that. By holding it by the block you can paint from underneath (cab roof underside) and all around. If you want to get fancy, drill a hole in the bottom of the block and make a stand out of a small piece of plywood with a bolt or nail through it that you can set the block on with the nail/bolt going up the hole.

Well, I am pretty well finished.  I need to make a change to the bolts I used to install the valve gear.  I was having problems getting the rivets to set properly, so I used small brass bolts.  I'm going to fill in the screw slot and paint them blue to match.

 

 

 

Here's a video:

 

 

 

you are the master flash,,,,,great job,thanks for sharing

I decided to pass on the circles.  I really am paint challenged.

I am looking for a 900 series set of new haven passenger cars with crummy paint to repaint royal blue to match.

Russell, are you aware that the eccentric rod on wrong? The end of the rod should be towards the center of the drive wheel. You've got it 180 degrees off. Otherwise, GREAT! BTW if you can find a white magic marker, you can do the rings pretty easily.

traindavid posted:

Russell, are you aware that the eccentric rod on wrong? The end of the rod should be towards the center of the drive wheel. You've got it 180 degrees off. Otherwise, GREAT! BTW if you can find a white magic marker, you can do the rings pretty easily.

Thanks for the heads up.  I thought something was off a bit.

Im lovin the smoke and choo choo