RTR Railking engine PS3 no direction

This set was first produced in PS/2 and again the next year in PS/3.  Are you sure you have PS/3?  Did you check any switches to see if they're set wrong?  The manual doesn't indicate that it has the 2-rai/3/rail switch, but many PS/3 locomotives do.

First thing I'd do is probably a factory reset on the locomotive and make sure you leave it on the track for a minute or so to charge the caps.

John,

Did the factory reset.  Pulled the boiler, tac reader is good, no pinched wires.  No power going to headlight connector or poles on the motor.

Thought about it last night, then it hit me.  This locomotive has a tether drawbar with six pins.  If I remember correctly, there either is or was a problem with the tether.

That could be it - no contact on one or several pins going from the tender to the engine.

  This engine was marketed as the lead unit in a RTR set in 2011.

Can check continuity on that today.  Fixing it would be difficult unless I want to run an umbilical cord tether.

Yes - it is PS3 with one switch 'DCS-DCC'.  Switch is in DCS position.  This is my first experience with PS3.

You need to not only check that the tether is properly latched in, but the drawbar connector inside the locomotive works it's way loose at times as well.  I've fixed a few where all that was wrong is that connector was not seated correctly.

Some times the drawbar has a cold solder joint at the pins, so resoldering can solve a drawbar connection issue.

Does the smoke work, headlight, cab light?  Are they controllable?  Is the motor spinning freely?  Nothing binding?

If all that is good and you have control, it may be locked in neutral. May want to try conventional reset also.   G

George, John,

Checked continuity in the tether/drawbar - good, all 6 wires have continuity both ends, no cracked solder joints.

Took the cable ties off in engine and tender wire bundles, separated wires.  No evidence of pinching or broken wires.

Programmed for MAX smoke volume - no smoke.

 Checked the motor separately with power directly from the Z-4000 - the motor jiggled but would not go forward or reverse.  Checked both the yellow and white wires on the brushes and touched the motor ground.  Nothing - no movement.

Earlier, before I posted - I did a factory reset - nothing.

At this point I come to the conclusion that there are two distinct problems:

1.  motor failure

2.  since there is no power to the headlight bulb and smoke does not work - it is possible the small circuit board in the engine has failed.

Only question at this point - $$$ to repair?

bruce

Well, it really depends on what the failure actually is.

The motor is DC, so it won't run from the Z4000, you need to check it with a DC supply, a max of 12 volts DC on the motor.  I'm guessing if it "wiggled" on AC, it's probably going to run on DC, this doesn't sound like a motor issue.

The boiler board is a possibility, but that's one I'd put on the tester to be sure of what we're looking at.

Did you do a conventional reset, while in neutral hit whistle and 5 bells?  You have to get the timing right, quick presses and about 1/2 second between each press.  There is also a direction control lock/unlock, whistle and 3 bells.

Bruce, That does sound like the boiler board.   G

John,

Can't believe I did not remember the motor is a can motor, DC.  Dumb of me!

Motor runs fine, both directions.

Did the conventional reset and got the two whistle blasts (response).  Nothing.

Would not run.

Appears to be a boiler board malfunction.  The PS3 boards are so small and compact I don't see how they even build them.

Do you have an estimate on board replacement and testing?

bruce

John,

It is the smaller board, no relay.

DO NOT order one-yet.

I will let you know if I want to pursue this will get back with you by email.

thanks,

bruce

The smaller board is cheaper, but it would be wise to test yours first.