This is my first disassembly of a pre-war locomotive. It appears that the design was probably set up for AC two rail? It is definitely not outside third rail. I surmise that the cylinder/coil (just above the worm) with multiple wires attached to it is an early generation rectifier?
It appears to be a very well-built and robust mechanism. Hand turning the motor after lubrication was quite free with minimal resistance or binding.
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Nice...I believe that rectifier should allow you to run the field-wound motor from a DC source...I think. 🤔 🙂
Mark in Oregon
Mark,
Thank you.
Rob
Yes that is a rectifier . And you could run the motor even with out it on DC , but it will run in 1 direction . most any motor will run on DC
Hello have fun with your scalecraft engine
Yes that is a rectifier those tend to go bad so you apply current and nothing happens.
Nine times out of 10 I cut those things out of there and you can add a new rectifier or you can just hot wire the motor to go forward and forget about all those switching moves.
It is a universal motor happy to run on AC or DC DC tends to be a little cooler making the motor happier but you'll need a rectifier or an old manual reverse to go backwards and forth
All,
Thanks for the advice!
Carey, I have watched your videos on YouTube with great interest. By the way, what lubricants do you use on your prewar/postwar locos?
Rob
@Carey Williams posted:It is a universal motor happy to run on AC or DC DC tends to be a little cooler making the motor happier but you'll need a rectifier or an old manual reverse to go backwards and forth
Carey
"DC tends to be a little cooler..." That's what I always thought, but several times I've posted threads (on this site) about AC vs DC, and I think it's been explained that it's actually cooler on AC, since the motor gets a "break" (60 cycles) as opposed to the constant ("direct") flow of DC. Hopefully someone will read this and clarify once and for all. 🙂
In my case(s) I was referring to the "universal" motors used in Gilbert S scale engines...
Mark in Oregon
An All Nation permanent magnet #2 or a Pittman motor can be fitted to a Scale-Craft P13 Pacific fairly easily and will operate better than the old K&D wound motor shown above. Both PM motors will work better with DCC in any case.
@j2morris posted:An All Nation permanent magnet #2 or a Pittman motor can be fitted to a Scale-Craft P13 Pacific fairly easily and will operate better than the old K&D wound motor shown above. Both PM motors will work better with DCC in any case.
Thank you. My first inclination was to swap in a Pittman, but there is some nostalgia in keeping the original motor.
Noise too, but yes nostalgic and certainly generates more of a "fragrance" as well, not too mention "fuzz" or "snow" on any nearby tv screen not wired to cable.
(me like anyway)
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