Although I've done all of the "Hikel mods" on my Scaletrax switches, my #6 switches still short out when used in "non-derail" mode, and I can explain why.
The switches are designed to allow a train to enter a switich in the "converging" direction even when the points are set in the wrong direction. They have a built-in spring that allows the wheels to push the points outward enough to allow the train to pass over them without derailing.
I don't recommend this, at least with a #6 switch (I haven't yet tried other sizes) for the following reason: When the center pickup roller of a loco moves from the center diamond to the center "fork," it's wide enough to temporarily short between the center fork and the adjacent "point" rail. Normally, no problem because the points are supposed to be insulated. However, I found that on both my Lionel Legacy Big Boy, and a smaller switcher loco, that the lead wheels which are "pushing" the point rail aside, are thus contacting the point rail on one side and the outside rail on the other side. Because the wheel is touching both the outer rail and a point rail, the point rail becomes temporarily "ground." And the pickup roller is just wide enough to touch both the center rail and pivot-end of the point. Thus the pickup roller shorts the center and outer rails, and at low speed the locos simply stop (and spark.)
So I just wanted to throw this observation out there for future Googlers, in cases where their Scaletrax switches are shorting out when being crossed in "non-derail" mode.
Scaletrax and especially the switches are a real pain in the neck to deal with because they can be so finicky and fragile -- but I find that the effort is worth it because they are very reliable (so far) once properly debugged and installed, and look better than any other track system out there.
I also posted, on another thread, my method for connecting Scaletrax flex track to both itself and also to "regular" straight and curve pieces. This method has worked really well.
All in all, a lot of work. But worth it to me for the smaller rail profile and thin center rail.
P.S. I believe MTH has started shipping newly-manufactured switches (finally!), possibly incorporating some of the Hikel suggested revisions. I'd love to hear from anyone who has tried them, and exactly what the changes are.