Scrapiron Is Thick As A Brick

Undercoat must be dry or it could come off. Have used thinned Micheals,Hobby Lobby, Walmart, acrylic "squirt" paints for the motar and mixed in small washed out old plastic coleslaw, butter, etc food containers. Slop on, we use a small like shaving brush but anything would work, and don't wait too long or you have to rub too hard to remove it off the brick tops. We don't really care if it all comes off either.

Also, the rag you use to wipe off the excess cannot reach into the crevices.

For example old t-shirts work way better than insde out old white socks where the pile cleans out the mortar grooves. Shallow mortar lines make it even harder. Work gently:-)

Lima and Jim,

Many,many thanks.

Scrappy just ordered the "Bricks/Mortar" 

That looks like good stuff. I am going to give it a try.

After i've painted the bricks to a desired color and let the paint dry thoroughly, i spray it with a light coat of Dullcote. Let it dry completely!! Then i just smear on some cheap white acrylic, let it dry just a little and wipe it off.

jackson, CEO, Not-So-Great Eastern R.R.

I really like the Roberts Brick Mortar, it works well for me.

Rich

I tried it and found it no more effective than a 50 cent bottle of acrylic paint - not putting it down, just relaying my experience with it.

jackson

I have tried all the methods and recently found the easiest is using hunterline stains.

Sounds a bit unusual, but it worked very well, especially on buildings with very fine mortar lines.

Bill D

A diluted house latex paint works well (Thin water diluted).  Keep in mind that this was three or four applications before the paint/mortar lines were acceptable. I also did some sanding with 600 grit paper after the paint was applied/dry. First step before any assembly with the Ameritown pieces laying flat on the work bench.  Take some time and leave the paint dry between applications. Patients.





Buildings.

I use Mikes method of diluted latex paint. It has always provided good results. I have used white, grey and beige colors for the mortar joints.

On DPM modular wall sections that have smaller and deeper grooves between the bricks, I will use a 2 to 1 water to paint ration and let it sit on the wall longer before I wipe it off. For Korber and Ameritown buildings, I usually use a 1 to 1 ratio.

Alan Graziano

use wall spackle for mortar-to paint hrick color-red auto prmer-put spackle and wipe off with cotton rag=use ear swabs to take wipe corners where spackle clogs up-

do small  sections at a time.

Eliot

Just like Alan G said , plain old latex paint

Alex

Eliot,

As Frank and others have said - many different ways all produce great results.

I shot this photo for an OGR article a while back using diluted acrylic paint with no wiping needed. No fancy mixing formula - just a brushful of paint and some water on the palette. Talk about a lucky shot though - it isn't always as easy as the photo made it look!!!

Best results happen when you start with either a primed surface or one that has been given a spray of Testor's Dullcote. Also, as Mike said, it doesn't always happen with one application.

The advantage of acrylics is that you can adjust the colors for the effect you want. For example, I prefer an antique white for a warmer tone, or a light gray for some variety.

Jim

I use Robert's as well. Ameritowne fronts, which I love, have fairly shallow mortar grooves, especially compared to MTH buildings. This makes them harder to get a "neat look". Like jerrman said, with Robert's, you don't have to "beat the clock" (which, by the way, is hard except for very small areas. Even then, you have to deal with "overlap").

We'll drink beer, smoke cigars, lie about hot women and make some buildings . .. 

                          . . . . . Frank

There's a reason I won't have to lie about the hotties. 

A thousand thanks for all the great suggestions.

I am certain they will work.

My first step will be the new mortar.

Second step will be to try Dullcoat. A good idea.

i will have at it until it works.

Then, I will take all the credit.

Jim  .  .  . That palette almost hit me.

You must have been good with a frisbee back in the Bronx.

Seriously,

I am very gratified that so many master builders chipped in here. Thank you all very much. Whatever I have accomplished, it has been with your expertise.

Scrapiron the Grateful

Eliot, I feel and share your angst!

I have tried numerous times without success.  Too much white was left on the bricks no matter how hard I tried to not have it there.  Every time that I got rid of the white on the bricks I landed up removing some/most of the mortar lines too.

Even pictures that I've seen in mags and here on the forum, the bricks are "whitish".

The ones that Mike and Frank posted above are the very best that I have ever seen!!!!!  Ever, anywhere.  Congrats guys on a great result.

I've never tried Roberts Brick Mortar so maybe I will do that.

Good topic - for me!

- walt

I used Roberts Brick Mortar for the first time when I took a K-Lineville Pharmacy Kit and made into a realistic looking pharmacy.  I really like it.  Matt

This tower was done with Roberts

Rich,

Please don't take offense, but your picture shows what I meant by "too whitish" bricks.  It may look less whitish in person, but the photo makes it look so.

Don't get mad!!!

- walt

I don't think so.

here is a real picture take a look the whitish.

Andre.

concede.

I paint my brick with automotive paint (spray can) and then paint the mortar with water based paint. That way it's easy to remove or ajust the 'white'.

No offense Walt,

I person it is a bit more defined.  I have had others I used the craft paint on that are just as you described.

The good news is that there are several approaches that all yield good results, and everyone has their preferences.

Wow, sounds a h*** of lot better than your average model railroad clinic, doesn't it? 

Elliot, relax.  You'll eventually get it.  Gee, at first I thought this was Jethro Tull topic.

George

George,

When you say I'll eventually get it, were you talking about the beer, cigars, and . . . . 

Or the brick mortar technique?

Yes.

Hmmm.  I thought this was some kind of confessional thread from the title.

I use all sorts of things depending on the result I want. Walthers works very well and is consistent. I also use acrylic paint for varying shades. Best to do a test spot. They look a total different color wet and dry.  

Some buildings I want the look very older brick and white buildup on some brick surfaces. Sometimes I want just a very thin mortar. Best thing is my feeling is when you screw up thsts fine too. Do a search on google for brick buildings, out in the real world they vary tremendously. 

That matches my philosophy perfectly.  

I received the Roberts Brick and Mortar today.

I believe it does an excellent job and is a nice impovement.

The problem I used too many primer and color coats so there

is less of a channel for the mortar.

My bad.

Scrappy

I'll do brick when pressed, and the money's right. And as far as reality is concerned every building is different and every building has its flaws. You can pick any job apart. But its still standing years later. Its all in what you perceive to be good. Look closely enough and every brick job will tell its tale. So if it looks good to you, Shazzam stop doubting yourself